Sugar and Spice and Everything Nice: The History of Spices and Seasonings

If, like the average human being, you consume nutrients on a daily basis, typically in the format of three main meals, then you’ll probably appreciate just how important the subject of this posting is to level of enjoyment that you derive from those three meals a day.

Spices and seasonings!

These days, we’re so used to having such easy access to spices and seasonings to instantly make our foods look, smell, taste or feel better or different, that most of us hardly give a second thought to where they come from, what they are…or even what they look like!

Since most people consume spices in powdered forms, it’s highly likely that, unless you’re a chef, or a really ardent foodie, you’ve never even seen most spices in their raw forms.

In this posting, we’ll be looking at the most commonly used spices present in the world – their histories, uses, origins, and native forms.

So take a palette-cleanser…things are about to get spicy…

A Brief History of Spices

Spices of any variety have been around for literally thousands of years, but antiquity is no guarantee of accessibility. For much of human history, and well into the 1800s, spices were one of the rarest, most expensive things that money could buy – especially in places like Europe, and the Americas. The reason for this was because most spices grew in the Middle East, and Asia, and had to travel phenomenally long distances – hundreds, thousands of miles – by ship, by horseback, by mule-wagon and other things, as a result – just to reach the market of its destination. The time, effort, trouble, and danger involved in all this transport was what made spices phenomenally expensive, and why anything but the most sparing use of said spices, was a show of real wealth and luxury.

Due to the long journeys involved, and the time taken, not all spices could be enjoyed fresh when they arrived in Europe. For example, ginger was almost always either dried, or powdered. Fresh ginger root was nigh impossible to obtain outside of Asia in an age before fast, industrial transport, as it would have rotted by the time it arrived in England from say, India, or China.

It was for all these reasons that spices were so expensive, and why any liberal use of them by anybody apart from the stinking rich, would’ve been rare. It wasn’t until the later 1800s when mechanical means of transporting spices in days or weeks, rather than months, did they become much more readily available around the world.

Black Pepper


Black pepper is supposed to be the most commonly used spice in the world. And looking at any restaurant dining-table that you’re ever likely to come across, who would doubt it? But what’s its story?

Black pepper, or Piper Nigrum is actually a flowering vine, and the peppercorns that we find inside our pepper-mills are grown as clumps or strands of corns on these vines, which are native to the Kerala regeion of India. Peppercorn vines can grow up to 30ft high!!

The corns are harvested, dried, broken apart into individual pepercorn kernals, and then sold. While there are three types of pepper – black, white, and green – they all come from the same plant. The difference in colour is due to when, and how the vines of peppercorns are harvested and processed, which effects the end taste and colour.

Cinnamon

Aaah cinnamon. It’s good for cookies, cakes, rolls, and even kooky internet challenges. But what is cinnamon, really?

MMmmmm!! Cinnamon! God, I can smell it already…

Cinnamon comes from a tree which is native to Ceylon, India, and Burma. Specifically, cinnamon is the bark of the Ceylon cinnamon tree, which is native to the island and surrounding countries. The bark is peeled off, rolled into tubes, or ‘quills’, and is then dried. It’s these sticks or quills of cinnamon bark which we buy at the supermarket, and it’s these quills which are crushed and ground up into a powder for cooking with. The strong, sweet, pungent taste made cinnamon a valued spice for centuries, and the price of this rarest and most desirable of spices was astronomical in Europe during the Middle Ages.

Saffron

Sweet, pungent, aromatic, and with that beautiful rich red colour, saffron is, has been, and always will be – the King of Spices.

Since ancient times, saffron has been prized above all other spices. Above pepper, above cinnamon, above nutmeg, above just about everything else. It is the most expensive spice in the world, and one of the most expensive items by weight ever produced.

Saffron is the stigmas (the little antennae-tip-things) that grow in the center of the Saffron Crocus flower. Their bright red colour make them stand out vividly against the purple tint of the flower-petals, and it’s these little stigmas which saffron growers hunt down.

Saffron stigmas and a purple saffron flower

The problem is that each saffron flower only grows three stigmas. And they only grow for about a month every year. To get enough stigmas to dry out to make ONE gram of saffron, you need 150 flowers.

So to get enough saffron to sell it in commercial quantities, you would need entire fields of flowers.

The problem is, because they are flowers, you can’t just harvest saffron any old way. It must be done BY HAND. The delicate stigmas won’t stand up to the aggression of machine harvesting, or even rough hand-tools, so every single little red follicle must be picked manually.

And as I said – it takes 150 flowers to produce ONE GRAM of saffron. So to get one kilo of saffron therefore takes about 150,000 flowers.

Imagine if you had to pick 150,000 flowers in just four weeks. By hand.

Now imagine how much goddamn money you would want for all that effort for something so tiny.

Now you know why saffron costs as much as it does.

Saffron has been harvested the same way today as it has been for centuries. Once it’s harvested, it’s dried, and once dried, it’s packaged, and sold. Saffron has been used as a fabric dye, as a medicine, but most notably as a food flavoring for everything from desserts and tarts in Europe, to curries and rice-dishes in Asia. Is it worth its weight in gold? Not quite. But of all the spices on this list – it’s the one the gets the closest!

Sugar

Mmmm sugar! Sweet, sweet, delicious sugar. Mankind has had a love-hate, mutually destructive relationship with sugar, and it’s one that goes back centuries. Although not actually a spice, and rather a sweetener, I’m including it here as it is a flavour enhancer, nonetheless.

Sugar has been known about for centuries, for thousands of years, although it was little understood at the time. Early cultures called sugar ‘white honey’, since honey – the most common sweetener for much of history – was the only substance that most people could compare it to.

Sugar was originally produced from the sap or juice of the sugarcane plant. Sugarcane was difficult to grow, had to be harvested by hand, and was extremely labour-intensive to process. It had to be crushed to extract the juice inside the cane, then the juice had to be boiled to extract the sugar, and then the sugar had to be refined to remove the impurities. The sweet, dark, sticky syrup that comes from the extraction and refining processes is also used as a sweetener – we call it ‘molasses’.

The biggest drawback to early sugar-production, however – was where it was done. Sugarcane really only grows in tropical regions such as Southeast Asia, and the Caribbean. This meant that the places where sugar could be grown and processed on a large scale were small, and the distances it had to travel to reach its desired markets were immense!

Sugar plantations in places like the Deep South of the USA, and in the Caribbean in the 1600s, 1700s and early 1800s were largely slaveholding plantations, where the backbreaking work of harvesting and extraction was done by African slaves. It wasn’t until the late 1700s and the early 1800s that farmers discovered the ability to extract sugar from sugar-beets as well – which were easier to grow in a larger variety of areas – which caused the price of sugar, once so hard to produce and transport – to plummet – and for sugar-consumption in the U.K. alone, to rise by orders of magnitude just within the lifetime of Queen Victoria.

Mace & Nutmeg

Mmm. Nutmeg. Used on almost everything from the Middle Ages onwards, it’s popular on desserts, baked goods, savory dishes and so much more! But what is it?

Believe it or not, mace and nutmeg are (almost) the same thing! Or at least – they both come from the same plant.

Nutmeg comes from the seeds or nuts of the nutmeg tree, which is native to Indonesia.

So much for the nutmeg! Mace, on the other hand, is the outer covering, husk, or ‘aril’ that surrounds nutmeg seeds. To get nutmeg and mace, the seeds are harvested from the tree, and then the aril (outer covering) is peeled off the seed. The husks are dried for several days, changing colour in the process and these dried husks are what becomes mace.

To use nutmeg, all you have to do is to grate or crush the nutmeg to use it in cooking, baking, or flavouring food. Nutmeg was extremely popular in Europe and America, but its price and rarity meant that it was used sparingly.

An antique, sterling silver nutmeg grater. Both sides of the box are hinged. When not in use, the nutmeg nut is stored inside the box, and when it is being used, it’s grated over the rasp and the powder collects inside before it’s used, then the nut is put back into the box and the whole thing is closed up for storage

The spice was so prized that it was even stored inside purpose-made nutmeg boxes, which usually had built-in rasps or graters used to scrape off the necessary amounts of powder from the physical nut, so that it could be used to flavour food. Often made of solid silver, nutmeg grater-boxes are some of the most expensive antiques for their size in the world, and were usually made in all kinds of whimsical shapes and styles.

Ginger

Everybody loves ginger! From roast meats to curries, from sauces and soups to…gingerbread! Yay!!

Ginger is the rhizome or root of the zingibe officinale flowering plant. It’s use in food and medicine goes back centuries and centuries and centuries, and was first mentioned in text by the legendary Chinese scholar Kong Fuzi...does that name sound familiar? In English, it’s translated as…Confucius.

Yes. THAT Confucius! Confucius says!

And Confucius says – a lot! In particular, he said that he ate ginger with almost all his meals, that it was a digestive aid, and that ginger was imported to China from the South Pacific. In particular, from Oceania, and specifically – from Indonesia and the islands surrounding it. Ginger’s pungent taste made it a popular flavouring, and it has been used in Asian cooking (and traditional medicines) for literally thousands of years. Ginger made its way to Europe in the first century A.D., and was mentioned in the writings of Ancient Roman statesman, Pliny the Elder – who – unlike his nephew – Pliny the Younger – did not survive the 79A.D. eruption of Mount Vesuvius near the Roman town of Pompeii.

Unfortunately, ginger root could not be transported fresh to Europe all the way from Southeast Asia – it would never survive the journey without going mouldy – so the spice was often dried, or even powdered, before transport, so that it could arrive in places like Italy or England in a usable, if not exactly fresh – state. Ginger’s most famous use in European cooking is in gingerbread! The dense, sweet, sticky paste made from flour, ginger, nutmeg, honey and citrus peel was often so viscous that it could be shaped into almost anything – like gingerbread men – or, if your dough was strong enough – even a full-blown model gingerbread house – just like Hansel and Gretel. Gingerbread, just like almost anything sweet and/or spicy in medieval times, was a luxury, and only royalty or nobility could normally afford to enjoy this treat, since the ingredients that made the gingerbread…eh…gingery…cost such astronomical amounts of money.

Cloves

Mmmm!! Cloves! Popular in Asian and Western dishes for centuries, cloves are the dried flower-buds that come from the tree Syzygium Aromaticum – a type of myrtle tree. The tree is – you guessed it!…native to Indonesia! They weren’t called the ‘Spice Islands’ for nothing! Cloves are used in sweet and savory dishes, and clove extract (or ‘clove oil’) is a popular natural medicine, which nowadays is being explored to understand its potential medicinal effects and uses.

Star Anise


Aren’t star anise cute!? These spiky, usually eight-sided spices come from a tree in southern China and have been used for medicine, cooking, flavouring and even cosmetics – for centuries. The name comes from its star-like shape, and because its flavour is similar to the anise flower, from which we get aniseed – another popular flavouring agent. In fact, because star anise tastes so similar to actual aniseed, it’s become a popular flavouring agent in baking, and cooking, and is widely used in things like toothpastes and perfumes, as a cheaper alternative to aniseed.

Cardamom

Originating in India, cardamom is a spice related to ginger, and is grown in the form of pods or seeds of the cardamom plant. Today, it’s more often found in Malaysia and Guatemala than India, but it remains a popular spice in Indian (and other southeast-Asian) cuisines.

Apart from its culinary uses, cardamom is also used as a drug or medicine – it can even be smoked! As medicine, its most common use is as a digestive aid, but it can also be drunk in tea-form to lower blood-pressure, or to help treat fatty-liver disease – sounds mighty useful for something that you might use when you’re busy baking desserts!

Vanilla

Yes, believe it or not, but that thing which flavours your custard tarts, ice cream and other desserts – is a spice!

Raw, dried vanilla beans

Vanilla comes from the pods, or ‘beans’ of the Vanilla Orchid, which is native to Mexico. Believe it or not, but on the “spice rarity scale”, true vanilla flavouring is actually the second-rarest and second-most-expensive spice in the world!…which one is first? That’s right – Saffron!

But how could a spice that’s used in all kinds of desserts, not to mention incalculable quantities of ice-cream – be so rare!?

Like saffron, it’s because real vanilla is bloody hard to grow!

See, for the vanilla beans or pods to sprout, the vanilla flower which produces them, has to be pollinated. If this was left up to nature, it would take forever, and we’d never get the chance to ever enjoy the stuff – but fortunately for us, there are other ways to stimulate a vanilla plant. The first method was discovered in 1837 by a Belgian botanist named Charles Morren. His research led him to the realisation that the vanilla orchid is pollinated by the rare melipone bee, which is native to South America. The problem is that waiting for bees to pollinate the flowers could take forever! Morren tried to speed up the process, but was unsuccessful, and his method failed to bear fruit!…or in this case…uh…vanilla pods.

Surprisingly, the person who DID discover how to grow vanilla wasn’t Belgian, and wasn’t even a scientist! He was a 12-year-old African slave-boy named Edmond Albius! Like Morren before him, Albius discovered that you didn’t need cute little bees to pollinate vanilla flowers – that it could be done by hand. The problem was that Morren’s method was too haphazard to work properly. Albius’s breakthrough was using a stem or stick, or even a blade of grass, to manipulate the flower so that the pollen from the stamen inside the flower could be transferred to the stigma – thereby pollinating the flower!

Nearly two centuries later, and vanilla orchids are still pollinated in this exact same way as little Edmond had done, way back in 1841! The method is easy, and quick, but because it’s so delicate, it’s an operation which can only be done by hand – this is why real, true, authentic vanilla pods are so rare, and expensive – because every single flower has to be fertilised by hand.

Conclusion

And this concludes our foray into the delicious world of spices. Are these all the spices in the world? Certainly not, but they are among the most commonly used. These days, people are so used to getting their spices in powders and packets, containers and bottles, that they tend to forget what they look like, where they come from, or even, how rare and difficult they used to be to obtain. Hopefully this posting has been an informative, entertaining and educational look at how our spices came to be, where they came from, and why they were once among the most valuable commodities in the world.