Throughout History

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Monthly Archives: November 2013

29/11/2013 by Scheong

All A Flutter – A History of the Folding Fan

On a recent trip to Singapore I purchased a very nice folding sandalwood fan. It was partially a souvenir, partially a survival-aid. Any chance to use it and cool off in the 80% humidity and 32-degree heat was exploited. While waiting to cross streets, sitting while watching outdoor performances, stopping for a drink at a cafe, or simply using it to block, or at least filter, the direct glare of the sun, it was used.

While furiously trying to prevent death from heat-stroke, it crossed my mind, the absurd simplicity of the folding fan, and the sheer endurance of such a simple and effective design. So simple and effective that they’re still manufactured in their thousands today. It made me wonder about their history.

If you’ve ever been to Chinatown, gone to a Chinese restaurant, visited any Chinese friends, or looked at old Chinese photographs, you’ve probably seen these:

Folding fan made of Sandalwood. From Australianweddingshop.com

The folding fan, also called a hand-fan or a Chinese fan, is one of the most iconic items ever to be associated with the Far East, the tropics, or hot, summer days. But where do they come from?

Surprisingly, folding fans are not actually Chinese at all. They originated in Japan! Called Ogi, the folding fan was developed in Japan ca. 670A.D., not reaching China until the 900s. The earliest folding fans were made of thin slats of wood, or bamboo, riveted together at a point, and tied together at their far ends with thread, so that they could be opened and shut, used or stored, with ease. They were said to be inspired by the folding wings of bats.

Fans were originally expensive items. They were fiddly and time-consuming to make, and could only be afforded by royalty, aristocracy, or by the well-heeled samurai warrior-classes of Feudal Japan. As fans rose in popularity due to Japan’s sometimes humid summers, professional fan-makers set up shop, and prices began to fall. By the 1400s, fans were being made, carved, painted, or otherwise decorated by dedicated craftsmen, and they started spreading around Asia.

Fans spread to Europe through the famous “Silk Road“, the trading network that ran between Europe and Asia during the Ancient and Medieval periods. Traders on the Silk Road brought fans from Asia back to Europe, where they quickly became fashionable accessories among the well-dressed about town.

By the Georgian era, fans were becoming more commonplace and even more popular. Really nice fans could be made of Mother-of-Pearl, ivory, fine woods and silk. They could be exquisitely decorated, carved or painted. Some fans even had poems written on them. Cheaper fans were made of paper glued onto a frame of wooden slats. It was now possible for people from almost all walks of life to own a fan.

Fans were used mostly by women, but that didn’t stop men from carrying them around as well. Fans were handy for keeping cool in summer, but they were also used to drive away foul odors – in an age when few people bathed regularly, and masked appalling body-odor with perfume and scent, having a fan around to stop you from passing out due to unrestrained armpit-stench was almost mandatory.

Fan Language

Starting in the 1700s, and dying out by the end of the Victorian era, ‘fan language’ was a popular, but secretive method of communication used by young ladies during the Georgian era.

In an age when decorum, manners, etiquette and strict, strict rules of protocol were expected to be followed by EVERYONE who was considered ANYONE, it could be incredibly hard for young women to hang out with young men. Especially when parents or chaperones were around. What to do?

Just like young people today, the kids back in the 1700s used a common, everyday object to send coded messages. Today, it’s internet shorthand. Back then, it was fan-language.

Imagine two sets of parents at dinner, with their son and daughter, seated around the table. How on earth could the girl tell that cute guy sitting across from her just how much she liked him, when such open displays of affection were considered strictly taboo in front of others?

Use the fan.

Opening and closing the fan, waving it in a certain position or speed, or holding it in a certain place in relation to one’s body, or handling it in a certain way, all sent messages from one person to another, usually of an amorous nature, which would probably have shocked their parents.

Fan language could convey a surprisingly large number of messages. ‘I love you’, ‘I hate you’, ‘kiss me’, ‘you’re cute’, ‘We should talk later…hint-hint’, ‘I’m just not that into you’, ‘I’m seeing someone else’, and so-on.

Georgian and Victorian Fans

During the 18th and 19th centuries, fans became extremely popular. Women, and some men, carried them everywhere with them. To the park, to people’s houses when they went visiting, to town, when they went shopping, and especially, to the theater.

In an age when light was gas-fired, oil-burning or candle-flame, and before modern air-conditioning, public buildings which held large numbers of people in close proximity, such as restaurants, club-houses and theaters, could be surprisingly hot and stuffy. Carrying a fan to the theater (and in later years, even the cinema) was almost mandatory, to ensure that you passed out because the play was boring, and not because of the intolerable heat!

A fan fit for a Queen!

Fans were also used to help revive ladies when they fainted – a common occurrence due to the rib-crushing tightness of their corsets. While a police-constable might carry a “lady reviver” (a phial of smelling-salts) for this purpose, most women carried fans to prevent their own fainting, or to revive other friends who might’ve passed out, either due to heat or the inability to breathe.

Fighting Fans!

For such a flimsy, delicate object, you might be surprised to learn that fans were once used as weapons! Prominent in Japan, Korea and China, fans were used as throwing-weapons, shields, swimming-aids, or blunt-force weapons.

To be fair, the fans used in martial-arts were not the fancy bamboo or wood-slat fans which most of us are familiar with. These fans had ribs or slats of iron or brass, capable of dealing or taking blows, blocking spears, arrows, darts, or other missiles, and capable of withstanding punches and other attacks.

In Japan, the art of fan-fighting is called Tessenjutsu, literally “Fan Method” or “Fan Technique” (‘Tessen’ is the name for the special fans manufactured for this purpose).

Buying a Good Fan

Perhaps you want to buy a fan for a friend as a present. Perhaps you want one for yourself to carry around on hot days. Perhaps you want one as a souvenir? Or maybe, like me, you wanted one because you were visiting a tropical country and wanted to carry one around to keep yourself cool during the day, or the block out sun-glare. How do you pick a good one?

As with anything, you get what you pay for.

A good fan is not expensive. But a cheap fan will be a pain in the ass.

Avoid fans with leaves or fanning-surfaces made of paper. These cheap, crummy pieces of crap are generally not worth your money. Constant creasing and uncreasing, opening and closing will cause the paper to rip and tear over time.

Fans made of cloth and wood (or cloth and plastic) are light and comfortable. They’re also able to stand up to more rugged use. Stuff-it-in-your-bag sorts of fans.

For something more elegant, refined, or classic, you might consider an all-wood fan. These are usually made of bamboo, or sandalwood (such as the fan shown above). Sandalwood is ideal because it can be cut very thin, it can be carved inticately, and it won’t crack or break in the process. Also, sandalwood is naturally scented (and yes, it smells really nice). It’s preferable to sniff the wonderful scent of tropical wood, rather than body-sweat, on a hot day. However, there is a trade-off, sandalwood fans should be handled with care, their thin wooden slats are more prone to breakage than the cheaper, wood-and-cloth fans.

A good fan is one which opens all the way, and closes completely, with just a flick of the wrist. New fans are generally stiff from lack of use. To loosen it up, simply wave the fan open and shut several times, to try and break the hold of friction between the ribs of the fan. Fans with a looser rivet or pivot-point also tend to open and shut easier.

To open and close a fan like one of those oldschool kung-fu masters, you first need a fan which is already ‘broken in’, one that will open and shut all the way, with a flick of the wrist. A fan that jams or gets stuck is just a pain in the ass.

Hold the fan in your right hand, gripping the topmost rib, or the ‘guard’ at the end of the fan, with your thumb and the bottom third of your right index-finger.

Holding the fan entirely by this grip, flick it to the left. A good fan will allow the ribs and fan-surface to fall or flick open smoothly, all the way, by momentum or gravity alone. To close the fan, simply flick it back the other way, to the right. If you do this enough times, not only will you get really good at it, but the fan will loosen up and be easier to open and close in the future.

I Want to Know More!

The Fan Museum

Origin of the Folding Fan

Japanese Fans

Japanese War Fans

 

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Posted in Cultural & Social History, History of Clothing
Tagged Feudal Japan, folding fan, Japan
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13/11/2013 by Scheong

Tiffin Time! Classic Stacked Lunch-Pails

I love writing about weird, whimsical items. Antiques, vintage oddities, nick-nacks, and things that you just don’t see every day. Typewriters, old sewing-machines, straight-razor kits, fountain pens, old furniture, household goods…anything strange, whacky, weird, whimsical, and unusual.

While on a trip around Singapore, I got my hands on just such a thing as I have described. Weird, whimsical and unusual. On the surface it sounds like nothing that anyone might be in the least bit interested. If I told you in-essence what it was, it’d be a simple case of “Meh!…”, and then you’d go back to your Facebook page…

Don’t believe me?

Okay…It’s a lunchbox.

*Tumbleweedz*

See? I told you. What’s interesting about a lunchbox? Probably not much, but how many of you have seen one like what I’m about to show you? Probably not many, unless you grew up, or live in Southeast Asia. Here it is:

With the spread of Japanese food around the world, you may be familiar with a ‘bento box’, the traditional Japanese lunchbox used to store sushi. But have you ever seen one of these?

They’re called different things depending on where you buy them and find them. To most English-speaking people, the correct term is a Tiffin-Carrier. If you went to India, in particular the city of Bombay, most people would call them Dabbas. But what is it?

What is a Tiffin-Carrier?

A Tiffin-Carrier, Tiffin-Box, Dabba, or just a ‘Tiffin’, is a compartmentalised food-storage unit. It consists of between two-to-four (usually three, or four) bowls or tins of the same, or similar sizes, stacked up on top of each other, with a lid on the top, sealed down and clamped shut with locks down the sides or top. It’s meant to act in a similar fashion to a thermos-flask, in that it keeps hot food warm, and cold food cool…but in the middle of tropical Asia, the most important aspect of the tiffin-carrier was that it kept the flies away – and therefore prevented food from being contaminated in the midday heat!

Tiffin-carriers came in various sizes and styles. From single, lidded pots, to double-stackers, triple-stackers, and even four-stackers. Sizes of the bowls range from tiny units, with each bowl only capable of holding a couple of mouthfuls , to large units capable of feeding as many people as there are bowls in the stack. How the carrier-bowls are clamped together in their familiar stacked-up formation varies from design to design. Older tiffin-carriers use friction-clamps built into the steel frame, under the carrying-handle, to produce tight seals, but most modern tiffin-carriers have pull-down clamps built into the frames, similar to those seen on glass kitchen-jars:

The History of the Tiffin-Carrier

Uuuh…hmm.

Good question.

A very good question.

And possibly, one without an answer…

Exactly where and when they were invented is not precisely known. Most people would probably say India, since that is where they are used the most, even in the 21st century, however, others contend that they were actually designed in China.

An older-style tiffin-carrier, with a swing-down friction-clamp attached to the carrying-handle that presses against the lid to seal the contents and prevent leaking

No-matter where they were invented, tiffin-carriers have been part of Southeast Asian culture for over a hundred years. Since at least 1890, they were being used by the colonising British in major cities around India, in particular, Bombay, to store and transport their lunches. In Bombay, where they are called “Dabbas”, they were, and still are, carted around town by dedicated “Dabbawallahs”, or tiffin-couriers, who shift thousands of these metal lunch-pails around town every single day, delivering hot, home-cooked meals
to thousands of office-workers for just a few dollars a month.

These unique lunch-pails followed Indian and British migrants during their travels around Southeast Asia. Use of tiffin-carriers therefore spread to Malaya, Singapore, China, Hong Kong and Indonesia (back then known as the Dutch East Indies). In these countries, just as in India, they were (and still are) used to store and transport hot food for short periods of time.

Tiffin-carrier use peaked during the mid-20th century, in the decades immediately before and after the Second World War. Changing tastes caused its decline in certain countries, but the food of southeast Asia is ideally suited for the tiffin-carrier, for which it was primarily designed to contain!

These days, brand-new tiffin-carriers are still manufactured, and you can buy them cheaply online or from kitchenware dealers who sell Asian products. They’re still widely-used in India, particularly the city of Bombay, but remain popular around Asia as general-purpose food-storage units.

What is ‘Tiffin’?

‘Tiffin’ is an Anglo-Indian word. It’s derived from the old English slang terms of ‘tiffing’, or to ‘tiff’, meaning to have a light drink – a comparable term still in use might be ‘tipple’. From ‘tiffing’ was derived ‘tiffin’, which eventually came to mean any light drink, snack, late-morning meal, morning tea or light luncheon, and even later, just lunch itself. The metal canisters used to store and transport the food which made up these meals were called ‘tiffin boxes’, ‘tiffin carriers’, or just ‘tiffins’.

‘Tiffin’ isn’t a word you hear much anymore, but from the mid-1800s until the end of British-colonisation of Asia, it was everywhere. It virtually replaced the word ‘lunch’ for the midday-meal for anyone who spoke English in the region! You didn’t go for lunch, you went for tiffin. And tiffin could be anything from soup, curry, rice, noodles, or light snacks and cakes. Something to tide you over in the moist heat of the Far-Eastern reaches of the British Empire. These days, the word ‘Tiffin’ is only ever heard in relation to India, or to tiffin-carriers. One rare exception is Raffles Hotel in Singapore, with its famous…Tiffin Room!

The famous ‘Tiffin Room’, at Raffles Hotel, Singapore. The antique tiffin-cans stored in the display-case in the background harken back to the meal which gave this restaurant its name

Using a Tiffin-Carrier

The stacked, segmented-storage bowl system of the tiffin-carrier is ideal for storing and transporting most Asian foods for on-the-go sutations. Noodles, rice, dumplings, curry, soup, and even sushi are easily stored in these handy, cylindrical bowls.

However, what kind of foods you store inside a Tiffin-Carrier is limited only by the size of the carrier, and your imagination. One compartment might hold salad, another compartment might hold rice, and another compartment might hold curry and sauce. Or noodles, or fried-rice, or sushi-rolls, soy-sauce and wasabi, or miso soup with soba noodles.

Perhaps you don’t like Asian food? Fine. Put your sandwich inside. And some cookies. Or a small packet of chips. Or some of that leftover spaghetti from last night’s dinner. Or Caesar Salad…what you put into it is limited only by its size, and your imagination!

Filling up a Tiffin-Carrier

When filling a tiffin-carrier, there are certain rules or guidelines that should be followed for successful packing, to prevent spills or leaks. Dry food at the bottom, wet food at the top. Stuff like rice and noodles can be stored in the bottommost chamber. Curry, meat and vegetables in the middle chamber/s, and soup or sauce in the topmost bowl. With its own lid, and it being the most tightly-sealed of all the bowls, this is the most leakproof of all the compartments, and thus best reserved for fluids.

And at any rate, being the compartment closest to your hand when the carrier is being…carried…soup or sauce will not slosh around so much inside the topmost compartment, as it might in the bottommost, where jolting, shaking or swaying would affect the liquid much more.

Advantages of a Tiffin-Carrier

Tiffin-carriers have certain advantages over other forms of food-storage and transport containers which have aided in their longevity as practical and useful food-containers.

– Plastic lunchboxes are prone to warping, cracking, and leeching or outgassing, where components of the plastic can contaminate the food.

– Thermos-flasks, usually lined with a sleeve of glass, are prone to breakage if accidentally dropped. The narrow openings cane make it difficult to access food easily and cleanly.

– The ability to store food components separately, unlike with a thermos, allows a greater variety of foodstuffs to be transported in a tiffin-carrier, and generally in greater quantities.

– Being made of metal, tiffin-carriers retain heat well, and last for ages. They’ll never warp, melt, crack or fade like plastic lunchboxes will. And with proper care, one good-sized, well-designed, quality-made tiffin-carrier could last in a single family for generations.

– Being able to break a tiffin-carrier down to its component parts makes it easier to eat out of. Much easier than trying to dig into a steel tube like a thermos, with a fork, or spoon, or pair of chopsticks…I’m suddenly reminded of Aesop’s Fable of the Stork and the Fox.

What are Tiffin-Carriers Made Of?

Modern tiffin-carriers, which you can buy online, in Asian countries like India, Malaysia, Singapore or Indonesia, or at Asian kitchen and homewares shops, are typically made of plastic, or more commonly, high-quality stainless steel. Older tiffin-carriers were made of brass, aluminium, or carbon-steel, with an enamelling of paint over the top, to prevent rusting.

A collection of antique, brass tiffin-carriers. Note the specially-made spoons which slot into the handles, to make eating out of them even easier

Tiffin-carriers made of brass were prized because brass conducts heat very well, meaning that the food would stay hot. At the same time, brass does not rust, so tiffin-carriers lasted a long time, especially in the humid climates of India and Southeast Asia, where tiffin-carriers were used the most.

The Tiffin-Vendors of Bombay

The city of Bombay has a longstanding tradition of using tiffin-carriers. Long? Over 120 years! From at least 1890, specialist couriers or ‘wallahs’ transported prepacked tiffin-cans, filled with home-cooked lunches, to office-workers all around Bombay in India. Originally established by the British, the ‘Dabbawallahs’ or ‘Tiffin-Wallahs’ have continued their work well into the 21st century. Tiffin-cans are collected every morning before lunch, organised, and then packed onto trains, bicycles and carts and shunted all over town, to arrive, piping-hot, in the tiffin-carrier’s office-building on-time for lunch. Once the food is consumed, the tiffin-wallahs do another round, to pick up the tiffin-carriers, and send them BACK to their homes, where grateful housewives, daughters, sisters or mothers will clean them, in preparation for the next day’s meal.

The price for this amazing service? $6.00 a month.

The accuracy of this service? 99.99% Only ONE, in every 15-20 MILLION deliveries is ever misplaced.

Buying a Tiffin-Carrier

If you’re looking for a new or different type of lunch-storage and transporting means, and you’re sick of plastic lunchboxes, recycling takeout-boxes, ‘doggy-bags’, or having to fiddle with thermos-flasks with dinky little screw-on ‘cups’, maybe a tiffin-carrier can help you out? Strong, with large storage-capacity, they come in a wide variety of sizes, and are easily washed, used, stored, and most importantly – transported!

Tiffin-carriers are easily purchased brand-new, from online dealers, or from Asian countries, like Singapore, India, Malaysia, etc., where they’re normally found in homewares, or kitchenwares shops. If you’re looking for an older one, you might try eBay, or specialist antiques shops. If you’re intending to use an older tiffin-carrier, make sure you buy one which is clean and in usable, non-leaking condition. You don’t want to get lockjaw or food-poisoning from a rusty old tiffin-box!

I hope you enjoyed reading this little posting about tiffin-carriers, as much as I’ve had, writing it. Feel free to leave comments and ratings.

Anyway…

…its tiffin time…

 

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Posted in Cultural & Social History, History of Food
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