National Foods which Aren’t National! A Tasty History

 

We all love to eat. And we all have particular foods, or dishes that we hold dear to our hearts, out of nostalgic, sentimental or patriotic reasons. Every nation and culture on earth have dishes that they regard as sacred, and as being quintessentially part of their lives. But not all is what it seems. In this posting, I’ll be talking about just a few of the dishes and foods which have surprising backstories.

Let us begin!

Food: The Hamburger
Claimant: The USA.
Origin Country: Germany.

Aah, the hamburger! The quintessential fast-food menu staple! But why are they called hamburgers when there’s…no ham…inside them?

The original “Hamburger”, a Hamburg Steak, popularly eaten in Germany for centuries. Sandwich versions of this steak became the ‘Hamburger’ we know today.

Actually, hamburgers are named after the city of their origin – Hamburg, Germany! The original concoction was a simple ground beef sandwich. When the people of Hamburg (also called ‘Hamburgers’) moved to the USA, they took their “Hamburg Steak Sandwiches” along with them. Deciding that this was an even bigger mouthful than the sandwiches themselves, Americans shortened them to just ‘hamburger’, and later on, shorter still, to just ‘burger’.

Food: Fish and Chips
Claimant: The UK
Origin Country: Various.

Ah, fish and chips! We like fish and chips! As British as bad weather, hot tea, and more accents than you can shake a stick at, fish and chips has long been seen as a staple of British cuisine!

Right?

Wrong.

Actually, fish and chips only goes back to Victorian times, barely two hundred years ago! The idea of battered, crumbed fish, deep-fried in oil (or as was common in Victorian times – beef tallow…mmm…tallow!), actually comes, not from England, but from Russia! Observant Russian Jews would abstain from doing any useful work on the Sabbath Day, except that which was absolutely essential, as dictated by their religious teachings. This includes the kindling of flames.

Fish and chips! Mmm…

Since you can’t kindle flames on the Sabbath, you can’t cook. So instead, they would batter, crumb and fry their fish the night before, so that they would have a quick, convenient and delicious food to eat the next day. This custom of frying fish came to England with the immigration of Russian and Polish Jews in the 1800s when they fled pogroms in Eastern Europe.

The idea of chunks of potato being fried in a similar manner comes from Belgium. Unable to fish during the winter months, Belgians would dice up potatoes into slabs or blocks and deep-fry them in oil or tallow as a fish-substitute. This method of cooking potatoes is also what gave rise to the “french fry”, since they were created in the French-speaking area of Belgium. That said, American-style French-fries are much thinner than British/Commonwealth-style Chips.

The first fish-and-chip shop…or as most people affectionately call them – chippies! – dates back to around 1860 in Britain. Fish and chips were a fast, tasty, filling, and relatively cheap dish. The industrial revolution allowed for the widespread construction of railroad networks which allowed for fish, potatoes, and other foods and vegetables to be, for the first time, transported in-bulk across the country in a matter of hours, rather than days or weeks. This spike in the availability of fish meant that the price dropped and it was cheap enough to be fried up and served to the working-classes as a convenient and crispy lunchtime snack.

Food: Doughnuts!
Claimant: The USA
Origin: The Netherlands.

Mmmm. Doughnuts. The staple food of Homer Simpson, Garfield the Cat and most American children, the doughnut has long since been a popular sweet snackfood. Chocolate-stuffed, jam-filled, custard-pumped, cinnamon-dusted, sugar-glazed…the list of varieties goes on forever!

But where do they come from?

Despite their popularity in the ‘States, doughnuts actually come from the Netherlands, and were brought to what would eventually become Manhattan, with the Dutch immigration in the 17th century. The doughnut is directly descendant from the Dutch Oly Koek, literally ‘Oily Cake’, so-named because it was a sweet cake or bun that was cooked by being fried in oil (much as most doughnuts are still made today).

Variations of the Oly Koek remained popular in the area around what would become New York City for centuries, and are mentioned in the writings of early American writer, Washington Irving, who said that to find the genuine Dutch original, you had to find Old Dutch families who had been living in New York for generations!

Traditional Dutch ‘Oly Koeks’ or ‘Oily Cakes’, the precursor to the modern doughnut.

The first record of a ‘dough nut’ comes from the early 1800s, when it was mentioned in an English-language cookbook from 1803. By the end of the decade, the spelling of “doughnut” or “dough nut” had become accepted, and the original Dutch snack was slowly morphing into the treat we know today.

Doughnuts at this time were not as we would currently recognise them, however. The majority still resembled buns rather than circles of sweetness. Although debate seems to rage over this, it appears that the modern holed doughnut was invented in the mid-1800s as a way to make the doughnuts cook more evenly when they were deep-fried.

Food: Chop Suey
Claimant: N/A. Supposed origin: China.
Origin: The USA.

Any film, or book, set or written back in the 1800s or early 1900s in the USA that mentions Chinese culture or food is likely to mention this dish at one time or another. It’s mentioned in the 1936 film “San Francisco”, when two characters decide to go out for a meal of ‘chop suey’.

At the time, it was believed by unknowing Americans, that chop suey was a genuine Chinese dish. It isn’t, a fact more widely known today than it once was. The word ‘chop suey’ is a corruption of the Chinese words “Za Sui”, which basically means “Bits and Pieces”. This is because chop suey was usually made out of whatever food was available and served up to hungry people looking for a cheap meal. As such, it doesn’t really have a recognised ‘recipe’. These days, ‘chop suey’ is largely seen as a historical curiosity, but there was a time when most people with limited knowledge of Chinese cuisine literally didn’t know any better.

Food: The Croissant.
Claimant: France.
Origin: Austria & Germany.

Ah! La croissant! The Crescent! Leavened dough folded, folded, folded and refolded over and over sheets of butter, before being proofed, and baked, and coming out hot, savory, tangy and crunchy and soft and oh-so-rich…mmmmm.

Who doesn’t like croissants? They’re as French as the Eiffel Tower and beheading the nobility! But believe it or not…they’re not french at all!

The East-European Kifli, or Kipferl, the precursor to the modern croissant.

The croissant actually originated in Austria, created by Viennese bakers who were creating a type of bread roll known as a “Kipferl” (literally “Twisted” or “Curved”). The idea of a leavened-dough roll or bun in the shape of a crescent migrated to France with Austrian immigrants in the 1800s, but even then, it wasn’t a Frenchman who was responsible for the transition from Kipferl to Croissant!

Zang’s bakery (on the left) in Paris, photographed in 1909, after his death.

Again, it was an Austrian, a former army officer turned civilian baker, August Zang, who moved to Paris in the 1830s. In Paris, Zang set up the “Boulangerie Viennoise” (literally “The Viennese Bakery”), where he sold modified versions of his native Kipferl, which became known as the ‘Croissant’ we love today.

H. Hughes & Son “Officer-of-the-Watch” Telescope (Ca. 1920).

 

After selling one of my telescopes last year at an antiques fair (and making a very healthy profit on it, if I do say so myself!), I was able to splurge a bit on another ‘scope – of a particular style which I have, until now, not had the privilege of adding to my collection.

I’ve seen a number of these telescopes over the years, but they were all in absolutely terrible condition. Most of them were covered with dents, scratches, loose or broken lenses…and outrageous price-tags! I don’t know about you, but $650 for a telescope with no glass inside it sounds like a very steep price to pay for what is basically a very nice, polished metal tube covered in leather.

I got this particular ‘scope from my local flea-market and after checking it all over for flaws and damage, decided that it was worth the expense to buy it. It had one or two minor faults, all relating to the leather sheathing, but nothing that some restoration (eventually…if it ever needs it) couldn’t rectify. So, for much less than the nearly $700 that the other telescopes were going for, I decided to buy it.

What is an ‘Officer of the Watch’ Telescope?

With its long, thin profile and single draw-tube, sliding glare-shield and smooth, leather cladding, this telescope is quite different from a lot of the others that you’ll find out ‘in the wild’ as it were. Most antique telescopes that you’ll find out and about are multi-tube telescopes without any type of sliding glare-shield, and they’re usually much smaller, with a closed length of anywhere from four to six to eight inches; some slightly larger ones might be about twelve inches, but not many will be longer than that.

Telescope with the draw-tube (back) and the glare-shield (front) extended.

By comparison, an officer-of-the-watch telescope typically measures 18 inches when closed up, stretching out to about two feet when fully extended. Most other telescopes can double or triple their lengths easily when they’re extended, while this particular model does not. Exactly why it was designed this way will be explained later on.

The Maker’s details.

These telescopes are called Officer-of-the-watch/officer-on-watch (‘OOW’) telescopes because they were usually purchased by officers or captains serving in the navy or the merchant marine for use on the ship’s bridge. Such telescopes were either the private property of the officers who carried them, or else were the property of the ship, and were kept on the bridge at all times for use by the crew. Their purpose was to provide a vision-aid close to hand for officers on the bridge in the event of an emergency.

Why are they shaped like they are?

A closeup of the glare-shield.

As I said earlier, Officer-of-the-Watch telescopes are long and narrow, with single draw-tubes and sliding glare-shields over their objective lenses. Their unique shape is due to the constraints of their working environments. Since these telescopes were usually kept (and used in) the bridge of a ship at sea, they had to be compact. A shorter, two-foot telescope was lighter, easier to carry and easier to use in the confined space of a ship’s wheelhouse, compared to a more conventional naval telescope (some of which could be three or even four feet long!). Try swinging that around inside a wheelhouse without cracking the helmsman in the head! He won’t thank you for it!

How Old are these Telescopes?

Officer-of-the-watch telescopes date to the early 20th century and appear to have been made exclusively in Britain. They were manufactured starting ca. 1900 up to the middle of the century. and were originally manufactured for the Royal Navy, but their use drifted into regular merchant-marine use as well due to their practicality of design.

So, what is an Officer of the Watch?

In the ship’s crew, an officer of the watch (or ‘officer on watch’) is the officer in charge of watchkeeping. Every officer on the ship, generally from the captain down to the lowest-ranking officer, covers watchkeeping in shifts. Traditionally, a watch was four hours long. During that four-hour shift, an officer stood watch on the bridge. Here, he could oversee the ship’s navigation, the weather, the speed and direction of travel, and could respond swiftly to emergencies. The officer of the watch had to be good at navigation, reading the weather, and at assessing dangerous situations such as storms, reefs, rocks and other hazards. In the absence of the captain (who might be sleeping, working, having dinner or be otherwise engaged), the officer of the watch was in charge of the ship’s immediate handling and navigation.

The “HUSUN” trademark on the glare-shield, comprised of the ocean and the rising sun

Typically, the officer of the watch was joined by at least two other sailors – a forward lookout or two, and a junior seaman known as a quartermaster, whose job was usually that of controlling the ship’s direction by manning the helm or the ship’s wheel. Officer-of-the-Watch telescopes were usually mounted on the wheelhouse walls, secured in place by brackets or rings to stop them rolling or sliding around.

In the event of something posing a hazard or threat to the ship (such as an oncoming storm, a coastline, rocks, a lighthouse or other ships), the officer of the watch could use the telescope provided (or one which he himself had purchased) to assess the situation ahead.

The bridge of the RMS Queen Mary. The semicircular devices on pedestals are the ship’s engine-order telegraphs

Since it could be dangerous to leave the wheelhouse during rough or stormy weather, a slimmer, more compact telescope which could be used easily indoors was preferable to the much longer, thicker, and heavier telescopes usually used at sea. Once the hazard had been identified, the ship could take appropriate action, either changing course, or else ordering the ship to stop or slow down, usually done by operating the engine-order telegraphs on the bridge, to send or ‘ring’ orders down to the engine-room below (each telegraph was equipped with a bell that dinged with each movement of the telegraph-arm so that the engineer could hear the change in orders from the bridge, over the drone of the engines).

What Features do these Telescopes Have?

To begin with, one of the most noticeable features of these telescopes is how thin they are. Typically not more than about three inches wide (if that!). A useful feature, since it would make the telescope easy to grip and hold – even if it’s winter on the Atlantic, and you’re wearing gloves to stop frostbite, but you need to spot an iceberg right ahead!

Another useful feature is the leather, non-slip cladding on the barrel. This was partially done for style purposes, but it also makes the telescope easier to grip with wet, cold hands in an emergency.

The third most noticeable feature that you’ll find on every officer of the watch telescope is the sliding shield at the front. Variously called ‘dew shields’ and ‘glare shields’, their purpose was to keep rain, seawater, spray and sunlight off the main lens (known as the ‘objective lens’). By sliding the shield out ahead of the lens, it prevented the sun’s rays from reflecting off the glass and potentially blinding the user, and it also kept the glass clear of raindrops or sea-spray in heavy weather, and was a popular feature on maritime telescopes.

Are These Types of Telescopes Common?

They are fairly common, yes. I’ve seen about four or five before I eventually bought this one. Most of them were in terrible, unusable condition due to their age and the lives they led, but you can find working examples for not too much money, if you’re patient. They’re typically made of brass (which may or may not be nickel-plated. Mine is plated) and are typically 18 inches long, extending out to about 24 inches in open length. Living in Australia, a country which until the late 20th century was accessible only by ship, finding maritime antiques isn’t that difficult. Barometers, ship’s clocks, telescopes, binoculars and sextants are pretty common here.

If you’re thinking of buying an antique telescope, then you need to check for things like dents, cracks, scratches and warpage. Damaged lenses can be hard to replace, and so should be avoided. Dents on the barrel (but even moreso on the draw-tubes) should be avoided as much as possible. Dents will misshape the profile of the tube and make it harder to draw in and out of the telescope. Dents on the draw-tubes will cause the telescope to jam.

If you have the right tools and enough patience, you can press and roll out (or at least reduce) stubborn dents, but you should be careful not to warp the shape of the tube. I was able to use a heavy, wooden rolling pin to roll out the dent inside the glare-shield on one of my favourite telescopes with great success. It wasn’t entirely eliminated, but it was reduced significantly – enough that it was no longer causing the shield to jam every time I opened or closed it.

The eyepiece shutter (closed) on the end of the telescope.

You should check that the sliding eyepiece shutter over the eyepiece lens is in good condition. If loose, they can be tightened by screwing them back into place. If they’re too tight, loosen the screw slightly. If the screw works itself loose repeatedly after tightening, every time you open and close the shutter, then a DROP of oil on the shutter will provide enough lubrication to allow the shutter to slide open and shut, without the friction that would also loosen the screw.

Simply tighten the screw as much as possible, apply a dab of oil and work it in. I’ve had to do that with a couple of telescopes in the past and provided the oil doesn’t dry out completely (unlikely), then it’s a very effective little fix.

Last but not least, you should check the telescope for its lens cap. Not all telescopes were designed to have lens-caps, but most did. This one does not have a cap over the objective lens, and never did. Instead it has a leather hood that drops over it, but most telescopes are meant to have them, to protect the objective lens from dust, water and damage. That said, it’s rather common to buy antique telescopes without their lens-caps included.

Anyway, that wraps up my posting about my rather different and interesting addition to my collection. For more information about antique telescopes, I can strongly recommend the blog of Nicholas Denbow, at The Telescope Collector. His posts are both entertaining, informative and fun to read!

A Fantasy Fulfilled – Acquiring Quizzers!

 

If you’re like me, and have had to grow up with appalling eyesight, then you’ll know that you can never have too many magnifying glasses. Ever since the day I started highschool, I’ve always wanted a pocket magnifying glass. Something which I could carry around with me and use whenever I needed to read small text, or magnify something which I couldn’t see clearly.

These days, there’s all kinds of magnifiers available. They come with lights, folding lenses and protective cases, they’re downloadable apps on your phone which you can customise to your needs, they have sensors and zoom-functions and all the rest of it.

And almost all of them are made of some cheap plastic stuff, usually in garish colours and god-awful patterns, and with weird, whacky designs that make them look more like toys than anything else. And this is the main reason why I have never bought one.

Instead, for many years, I held out, hoping to find something a little nicer, a little more refined and elegant, something useful that didn’t look like just another mass-produced vision-aid. Deciding to take a page from the book of history, I started hunting for a quizzing-glass.

What’s a Quizzing Glass?

“A what?”, I hear you say.

A quizzing-glass, I repeat, a quizzing-glass.

Alright…and what is a ‘quizzing-glass’?

I am so glad you asked, because this post is going to be all about them!

My sterling silver quizzing-glass, complete with silver albert-chain.

First, a bit of background – struggling with a heady mix of myopia and astigmatism (the eyes’ inability to both focus, and stabilise an image) – my eyesight has always been awful. Don’t get me wrong, I can see well enough to do just about anything – with enough time, patience and swearing, I can thread a needle if I really have to – but because of my conflicting vision-conditions, I’ve always suffered from terrible nearsightedness – hence the need for a decent magnifying glass.

To this end, I’d spent a long time – at least 10 years – searching for a decent quizzing-glass to use as a magnifier. Unfortunately, quizzing-glasses are both rare, and expensive. Despite visiting countless fairs, shops, and dealers, I’d never been able to find one, or afford one, or buy one which I liked enough to spend money on – when a glass costs upwards of $600 retail, you want it to be the best possible…and even then, I didn’t have $600 to blow, being a poor university student at the time.

Anyway, enough backstory – what is a quizzing-glass??

Quizzing-glasses, or ‘quizzers’ as they’re also called, are small, pocket-sized handheld magnifying glasses with single lenses. The lenses are about the size of a large coin, and the frames and rims are typically made from gold, silver, or Pinchbeck-Brass (more about that later). Quizzers typically came with a handle or ring under the frame to hold in the hand or fingers, and the same handle or frame also served as an anchoring point for a chain, ribbon or cord, that affixed to the user’s clothing or went around the neck, to prevent damage or loss during the course of a day’s usage.

Quizzing-glasses were very common in the 1700s and 1800s. At a time when eyesight conditions were typically corrected with crude lenses and eyepieces such as Nurnberg spectacles and handheld lorgnettes, high society was looking for something more elegant and refined.

‘Nurnberg’ spectacle-frames, named after the town in Germany where they were invented – the most common type of spectacles in the 1700s. They would eventually evolve into the French ‘Pince-Nez’.

Quizzing-glasses were a lot more than just eyepieces to help you read stuff, in the 1700s, they were also flashy fashion-accessories! It was very common for a man – or even a woman – of means, to sport a quizzer as a fashion-accessory, even if they didn’t even need one! Peering at something through a quizzer became an upperclass affectation – one might, or might not, be genuinely interested in whatever they were looking at – but if they did look at it, then it was usually through the lens of a quizzer! In the later 19th century and even into the 20th century, this action was usually replaced by the more well-known monocle (yes, there is a difference, I’ll talk about that later, too!).

For gentlemen in the late 1700s and early 1800s, stereotypical accessories were the walking-stick and tricorne hat. For ladies, a parasol and fan were the most common accessories – but both sexes carried, and used quizzing-glasses.

Why Use a Quizzing-Glass?

I suspect the main reason why they were so popular is partially because they were cheaper. Spectacles – even relatively simple ones, needed so much work done to them – two identical lenses, two rims, screws, springs, a bridge, nosepads…and if you wanted them, then also temple-arms – and if you did want them, then that meant adding hinges, more screws, finials, and maybe even a protective case to go with it…it’s getting expensive now, isn’t it?

My Pinchbeck brass quizzer, from the early 1800s.

On the other hand, if you weren’t the type who desperately needed or used spectacles every day, and instead only did a casual amount of reading or close-work, then a quizzer, with its simpler construction, fewer parts, and smaller size, was generally considered to be a better, and cheaper, selection!

What’s the Difference Between a Quizzer and a Monocle?

Ever since I started carrying and using my quizzers (which is on a daily basis, thanks to my aforementioned eye-condition), I get people who come up to me and say ‘Oh wow! A monocle, I didn’t know anybody used those anymore…‘.

I grin, and smile and nod…and do my best not to correct their misinformation – because – it’s not a monocle!

Alright, so what’s the difference, then?

A quizzing-glass and a monocle both have a single lens fitted into a frame or rim. Both lenses serve as magnifiers, or otherwise help to correct vision.

That is where the similarities END.

A quizzing-glass is a handheld device – the frame is held by the ring or handle up to the eye, like a magnifying glass, and is attached to the user’s clothing by a chain, cord or strap of some variety. When not in use, it sits in the pocket of the user’s coat or jacket or waistcoat, or hangs on a cord or ribbon around the neck, usually resting at chest-level.

On top of that, a quizzing-glass lens can be almost any shape – round, oval, hexagonal, octagonal…even square! Since it doesn’t have to fit into the user’s eye-socket, the shape or even the size of the lens and the frame around it really doesn’t matter. By comparison, a monocle’s lens is always a perfect circle – it has to be, in order to fit into the user’s eye-socket, which is how a monocle is worn.

Monocles fit into the user’s eye-socket through friction. You pop it in, and the friction of your eyebrow resting and pressing against the top of the monocle holds it against your cheekbone, keeping the monocle in place. In cheaper monocles, which are just plain glass, the edge of the lens is smoothed off to make it more comfortable to wear.

On more expensive monocles, which come with frames and rims, seating the monocle in the eye-socket is done with the aid of two protruding shelves or ledges affixed to the edge of the frame, called ‘galleries’. A monocle has two galleries – one for the top of your eye-socket, and one for the bottom. You raise your eyebrow, pop in your monocle and then relax your facial muscles. The tension of your eye-socket pressing or resting against the monocle-galleries should be enough – if the monocle is sized and fitted correctly – to hold it in place.

The End of the Quizzing Glass

While monocles and quizzing-glasses were, for a time, equally popular, quizzing glasses died out in the 1800s, and by the turn of the 20th century, were a complete anachronism. Their demise is due chiefly to the fact that they were a fashion accessory, rather than being an actual vision-correction device, such as a monocle is designed to be. As fashions changed to be less frivolous and flamboyant to more straitlaced and tidy, people with eyesight problems chose to use lorgnettes or even modern-style temple-glasses to correct their eyesight, rather than fiddling around with a quizzing-glass. Monocles and modern spectacles had the advantage that while worn, they could leave both hands free to work.

By comparison to the demise of the quizzing-glass, the monocle remains in use today. Although it’s largely seen as a quaint holdover from the Edwardian era, the stereotypical eyepiece of well-bred, public-school-educated upper-class men, you can still buy – and even have prescribed for you – monocles which are brand-new. Most wearers are people who have poor vision in just one eye, and for whom a pair of spectacles isn’t strictly necessary.

I want to Buy a Quizzing Glass!

Quizzing glasses can be hard to find. After all, they haven’t been manufactured in the best part of nearly 200 years! They’re typically made of silver, gold, or pinchbeck (a type of really shiny brass). They were most common from the early 1700s up to the mid-1800s (when various types of spectacles and monocles replaced them in popularity). So, if you want to buy one, what do you need to look out for?

First thing’s first – you need to check the lens. The lens should be clean, clear and without cracks, scratches or chips. Test it for magnification power and see if you’re comfortable with the strength provided. Unless you have the facilities, contacts or the money to pay for someone to grind you a new magnifying lens, discard any quizzers with overly-scratched/chipped lenses.

Next thing to check is the condition of the frame or rim. In general, these should be alright, but you can find some (as I certainly have, in the past) which were bent or damaged. This can cause the lens to sit improperly, or even fall out, so rivets, screws and the edges of frames should all be checked for integrity. While you’re at it, examine any holding-loops or handles for issues like dents, cracks, warping or bending, and loose fitting parts. Just keep in mind that some holding-loops are meant to pivot and swing around, so don’t worry if they swivel back and forth.

How Much do Quizzing Glasses Cost?

Due to their rarity, quizzers are fairly expensive. Although some historical reenactment companies do manufacture modern quizzers in antique style, to purchase an actual Georgian-era quizzer will set you back quite a bit, anywhere from $100 – $300 for a silver one in variable condition (which is not too bad a price to pay) up to $400 – $600+ for one in solid gold. And that’s provided you don’t have to pay for the lens to be replaced, or for the frame to be repaired.

Quizzers were typically attached to the body of the wearer using a silk ribbon or lanyard. Since I wear mine in my upper waistcoat-pockets, I use simple pocketwatch chains (which is an option, if you choose to wear them that way). To stop them from swinging around and damaging the glass, keep your quizzer tucked out of the way (under your shirt or in your jacket pocket) when not using it.

Restoring a Junker: Breathing Life into an Old Pocketknife

 

A few weeks ago, I attended the annual Melbourne Pen Show, the oldest continuous collector’s and dealer’s fair of writing equipment, writing accessories and antiques in the southern hemisphere. This year was our 20th anniversary!

I sold quite a few things at the show – not just pens, but also silverware and antiques. Eager to see what else was on offer, I left a friend to guard my sales table, and went off to have a look around. Ironically, for something labeled as a pen show, I didn’t find any pens which excited me enough, in a price-range I was comfortable with, to actually buy. But while poking around through all the related offerings of inkwells, ink bottles, leathergoods, diaries, desk accessories and assorted antiques, I did find a row of rather crusty old pocketknives.

None of them were particularly appealing, but after sifting through all the detritus, I came across a rather handsome specimen with nickel-silver bolsters, and clad all over in lovely shimmering, glossy mother of pearl scales. Like all the other knives, this one was crusted and grimy and dare I say it, rather overpriced, but I perceived that, with a bit of effort, it could be turned into something both elegant, and useful.

A good bit of haggling managed to chip the price down and I bought it feeling happy for myself. Within just a few minutes of walking off with it and settling back behind my own sales table at the fair, I whipped out the knife and started thinking over what would need to be done to the knife to restore it to something resembling working condition…because it certainly wasn’t!

The knife was a standard, palm-sized slipjoint penknife, somewhat on the smaller end of medium, with two opposing blades contained within a pair of brass liners and a single backspring underneath, ornamented with nickel-silver bolsters and thick slabs of mother of pearl between, on either side. It could be a very attractive knife – if only the blades would open without ripping your fingernails out by the roots, and could cut anything worth a damn, without giving you tetanus at the same time, from all the surface-rust on the steel.

Who made the Knife?

The maker’s mark: Ed. Wusthof.

The knife was manufactured in the capital of European cutlery – the German town of Solingen – by the centuries old firm of Wusthof. Established in 1814, the Wusthof cutlery firm is still owned and operated by the Wusthof family, over two centuries after it was founded! Although more famous today for making kitchen-knives, it was common in the old days for cutlers to make all kinds of blades from scissors to razors, pocket-knives to silverware. Specialising in one particular type of blade (like what most companies do now) is a relatively recent phenomenon. Being a Solingen knife, I knew I’d bought something of unquestioned quality – it would have to be, if the company’s still family-run after 200 years!

Cleaning, cleaning, and…more cleaning

In my many years of collecting and tinkering with antiques, it’s long been my experience that the vast majority of antiques that are purchased from someplace – be it a fair, online, at an antiques shop, or from someone’s barn in the middle of nowhere – only require ‘restoration’ or ‘repairs’, and are ‘broken’ or ‘don’t work’ – not because they ARE broken, or don’t work, but rather, because they simply haven’t been cleaned. In decades!

Watches, clocks, sewing machines, typewriters, fountain pens, cars, record-players…anything, really…that’s been used rough and put away wet, as they say…will tend to seize up and not work after several years of use and absolutely no maintenance. The same goes for pocketknives.

Once I got the knife home, I opened it up and flooded it with oil. I stuffed it full of tissue-paper and started rubbing and scraping away at the inside of the knife. Even this half-hearted attempt at cleaning the knife yielded amazing…and…frankly…revolting…results! After their brief spelunk into the dark cavities of the knife, the tissues returned to the surfaceworld clagged up and caked in filth! Black, brown, sludgy GUNK all over!

Now came the really messy bit…removing all this grime.

Working out the Grime

Unless you have all the right tools, removing 60 years of encrusted grime and gunk (the accumulated decades of dust, pocket-lint, dead skin, coagulated oil and god knows what else) from the inside of a pocketknife can be a long, slow, sticky, oily and very, very, VERY messy process. Most people don’t have these tools…like me…and so you gotta restore the knife without them, the long way around…and this can take days.

The only way to do this is to repeatedly flood the knife with oil (I suggest sewing machine oil, but if you can stand the smell, WD-40 works as well, but keep in mind, you will be using a LOT of it, so best to get a lubricant that doesn’t smell…) and then work the blades open and shut, over and over and over again.

The oil seeps into the deepest nooks and crannies of the knife and dilutes the grime and crud that’s stuck inside the springs, pivots and liners. Opening and closing the knife the literally thousands of times that this will require, works the grime loose and it seeps out the bottom of the knife through the backspring with each working of the blades.

Get some tissues, paper-towels or toilet-paper. Fold it thick and lay it on a hard surface like a tabletop. Rub the knife – spring-side down – against the paper. Press it hard into the paper and rub it vigorously back and forth. The capillary action of the oil seeping out of the knife into the paper draws out all the grime stuck inside the springs and pivots. Now lift up the knife and stare in horror and revulsion at the THICK BLACK GREASY LINES on the paper. This is the grime that’s inside the knife which you MUST remove if the knife is to work properly.

Ever wondered why your pocketknife keeps jamming? This is why! All this gunk and grime, flushed out from between the springs and pivots with copious amounts of oil, represents just 15 minutes of cleaning, in a process that took EIGHT DAYS to complete.

“But this takes DAYS!!” I hear you say. “Can’t you just lubricate the pivots and have done with it!?”

Sure. You can. But you’re only lubricating the grime that’s stuck inside the knife. Once the oil dries up, the grime dries up, sticks to the springs and pivots all over again, and turns to glue. It fuses the blades shut through sheer friction and you’re back to square one all over again. The only way to get the knife working properly is to get ALL that crud out. And the only way to do that is to flush it through with oil.

“Can’t you speed it up somehow?”

Not unless you can rip the knife apart, clean it, and then competently put it back together. Using an ultrasonic cleaner does help somewhat, but it’s only effective once the grime has already been loosened. Ultrasonic cleaners work by vibrating and generating thousands of tiny bubbles that burst and explode against anything they come in contact with (like a knife placed inside an ultrasonic bath).

These thousands of explosions flush out and dislodge any grime and gunk they come into contact with. But it only works if the bubbles can reach the grime – in this case, the grime is trapped deep inside the knife. For the cleaner to be effective, you need to work the grime loose, first.

The knife is clean once all this grime has been removed from all the pivot points, gullies, crevices and chokepoints inside the spring mechanism. When the oil coming out of the knife is clear (or as clear as you can get it), and the blades swing open and shut smoothly with little (if any) resistance, then the knife is clean. If the blades keep jerking open and shut, then it needs more cleaning. You do not want jerky, unpredictable blades in your pocketknife AFTER you’ve sharpened those same blades – they become a serious safety risk!

Removing the Chip

As elegant as the knife was (or as elegant as I perceived it would be, after I was done with it), there was no hiding the fact that the blade had a tiny, but noticeable chip along its length. It was a tiny chip – probably less than a millimeter, but it was a chip, nonetheless, and I knew that it would be pointless to try and sharpen or use the knife if the chip wasn’t dealt with. The chip is a weak-spot in the blade, but it’s also an annoyance and a safety risk. And it prevents you from cutting anything properly, since you don’t have a straight, clean edge.

The chip in the blade (circled in blue) was tiny – barely a millimeter deep, but its presence was enough to effect the cutting ability of the knife, and so had to be removed.

The only way to remove the chip was to grind the blade down to the same level as the end of the chip. That’s right – you have to physically remove metal from the blade. Obviously, the bigger the chip, the more metal you have to remove, so ideally, any knives you buy should have no chips at all, or if they do, then they should be tiny chips like this, where grinding down the blade doesn’t affect it so badly.

Out came the sharpening stones!

I picked out the roughest sharpening stone I had. I laid it down and started grinding the blade back and forth, heel to toe along the stone in a sawing or slicing action. The aim was to slowly grind down the metal until the edge of the blade met the top of the chip, thereby eliminating it. Obviously to do this well, the blade needs to be level on the grinding stone, or else you end up with a wonky-looking blade. So if you do have to do this, make sure the blade’s edge is level against the stone as you grind. Stop every few strokes to check progress and stop grinding entirely when the chip is ALMOST gone.

Once you reach that stage, regular sharpening of the now dulled knife-edge should remove the rest of the chip and restore the blade to its proper profile.

The same spot on the blade, after the chip was ground out on a stone. Nice and straight again!

Keep in mind that, because the only way to remove a chip or nick in the blade is to remove the metal around the chip, smaller chips are easier to remove from blades than larger chips. A knife with a big chips in the blade should generally be avoided.

Polishing the Blades

Knives which are this old are typically made of carbon steel. That means that they’re very susceptible to rusting. Back in the old days, the way to stop this was to give the blades a protective coating. 60 or 70 years ago or more, this was accomplished by plating the blades in a non-corrosive metal…like nickel. Nickel not only gave the knife a sheeny silver shine, but it also prevented the blades and other steel parts of the knife from corroding.

50, 70, 100 years later, and all that nickel-plating is gone. The blades will probably be growing rust and starting to pit, by now. Heavy rusting and pitting on blades should be red-alert signs that the knife is not to be touched, let alone purchased, but light surface rust can generally be removed by careful polishing.

To do this, you’ll need fine-grit sandpaper of varying degrees of roughness, and a polishing compound of your choice (or if you don’t want to use a metal polish, the oil that you used to loosen out the grime inside the springs and pivots can also be used).

With enough persistence, and the right degrees of abrasiveness, a combination of fine sandpaper and a lubricating/polishing liquid can restore a knife’s blades to a stunning shine. If you really put effort into it, you can even get a glossy, mirror finish, but don’t forget that your main task is to remove the rust.

Sharpening the Blades

Once you’re done removing the grime from the springs and pivots and got the blades opening and closing smoothly, once you’ve removed any chips from the blades and have given them a good polish, the last step is to sharpen the blades. I always leave blade sharpening as the last step to prevent any nasty cuts during the cleaning process.

There’s a million articles on the internet about how to sharpen everything from corkscrews to axes, so I won’t go into the intricacies of the action, but I will say that a pocketknife has been sufficiently sharpened when you can slice cleanly through a sheet of paper or cardboard from point to shank, without the blade sticking to, or tearing up, the paper or card as it makes the cut.

The main blade.

Hold the edge of the sheet of paper or cardboard in the thumb and index finger of your left hand, three or four inches from the corner. Holding your knife in your right hand, slice downwards, from the edge of the paper ahead of your fingers, from one side of the sheet to the other. A sharp knife will cut cleanly into the edge of the paper, through the middle and down to the bottom, the whole length of the blade without stopping. You should be able to do this really fast. If the blade sticks, jams, catches or fails to cut in any way, or if it tears the paper in half while this happens, then it’s not sharp enough.

Once the blades have been thoroughly sharpened, then your knife is ready for use!

The smaller pen-blade.

This is the process that I went through to restore this knife back to working condition. It was a long, drawn out process that took over a week (removing 60, 70 years of grime was never going to be easy!), but it was worth it. Now I have another beautiful vintage pocketknife to add to my collection.

Keeping it Clean and Sharp

Once you’ve finished the arduous task of restoring your pocketknife, it’s important to keep it in good condition. Don’t force the blades, always keep your knife dry, and every now and then (not often, once or twice a year should be enough, if you use it regularly), flush out the springs and pivots with oil again to keep the action smooth and free of grime. And don’t forget to sharpen it – ideally after any heavy use, if you feel that the blades are starting to lose their edges. Used correctly, a sharp knife is safer than a blunt one.

Seven Day Straight-Razor Cased Set (Sheffield, 1910)

 

For a lot of aficionados of traditional wet shaving, mastering the use of a classic cutthroat straight-edge razor is often seen as the zenith of one’s learning-curve and the peak of one’s skill-acquisition when it comes to reverting back to this more relaxed, eco-friendly, and most masculine of grooming rituals. Often perceived as being phenomenally dangerous, once mastered, the use of a cutthroat razor is both relaxing, enjoyable, and dare I say it – far more fun than shaving with a toss-out plastic cartridge razor. Cutthroat razors shave smoother, cleaner, and due to the significant length of the blade’s cutting-edge, remove more stubble with fewer strokes, than conventional modern razors. This means that they also shave much faster than modern razors.

Kept sharp, smooth and dry, stropped smoothly and honed correctly, a cutthroat razor will last for decades – even centuries, before it has to be thrown out. If ever! This, along with all its other attributes, is why the traditional straight razor is coming back into fashion with a vengeance!

Three of my antique straight razors, ivory, horn, and ivory. The strop and the toothpaste jar are also antiques. The razors are from the 1880s/1890s, the toothpaste jar is from about 1875.

I’ve been using a cutthroat razor for the past eight years. I typically shave every other day, strop each razor before and after each use, and touch up the blades every six to eight weeks, to keep them sharp. In my time, I’ve come to appreciate the amazing variety which is available when you turn to the art of using a straight razor, over that of a cartridge monstrosity. The different blade-shapes, point-styles, scale-materials, razor-sizes, blade-widths…the amount of variation found in razor to razor, even within a single manufacturer – is almost endless. This is why a lot of straight razor users claim to suffer from a condition known as “R.A.D.” – Razor Acquisition Disorder! And it’s not hard to see why – these beautiful, useful, long-lasting tools come in an almost infinite variety of sizes, styles, designs, materials and finishes.

In my time I’ve owned razors made in Germany, Britain and France. I’ve had razors from Solingen, razors from Sheffield, razors from companies that don’t even exist anymore, and razors from manufacturers whose names have gone down in history as famous cutlers. I’ve had razors with scales made of horn, snakewood, celluloid, stainless steel…even ivory!…I have two of those!

But from the very earliest days of attempting to master the use of the straight razor, of all the razors I’ve collected, sharpened, stropped, cleaned, sold or kept on, of all the razors I’ve cut myself with (Thank goodness, not many!) – there was one type of razor that I’ve always wanted…and never managed to get my hands on. Until about a month ago.

Seven Day Razor Sets

Among users and collectors of straight razors, there’s always various types of razors which people love to try and collect. The thinnest blades, the widest blades, ivory-scaled, horn-scaled, silver-scaled (yes, silver scaled razors do exist. They’re rare, but they do exist), two-razor sets, four-razor sets, the oldest, the newest, the most beautifully decorated…the list of variations, and of collecting goals and of ‘grail acquisitions’ go on, and on, and on.

And, for a lot of collectors, one of their goals is often the procurement of a classic ‘seven day set’. And that was one of my goals until a few weeks ago, when I finally got my hands on one!

What is a ‘Seven Day Set’?

A seven day set refers to a boxed set of seven identical cutthroat razors, one razor for each day of the week. Such sets were (and still are) sold as luxury male grooming accessories, and their price reflects that. Whether antique or modern, such sets often cost inordinate amounts of money. A modern seven day set, with decorated scales and handsome, wooden case, made by a well-respected company in modern times, currently retails for $3,500. By comparison, the average price of a secondhand straight razor at a flea market is anywhere from $5.00 to $50.00, depending on how old it is, its condition, and where and by whom, and of what it was made. So yes, when I said that seven day sets were expensive, I mean they’re REALLY expensive.

The full set, all lined up in its box.

And they can be rare, and if they’re antique, they can also be in questionable condition, and if they’re not, then they cost a mint to purchase. Because of all these reasons, such sets are often out of the reach and price-range of most collectors.

But, I digress.

Seven day sets date back to the earliest days of straight razors. Back when most people were unable to sharpen their razors themselves (that’s if they owned a razor at all), it was often the duty of the local barber to maintain the razors of his customers by periodically freshening up the edges. To lengthen the gap between sharpenings, men often kept two or three spare razors around to use while their main razor was being touched up at the barbershop. The practice of occasionally swapping out razors and changing them around meant that apart from needing less frequent sharpening, the bodies of the razors’ blades themselves, would last a lot longer.

The blades. They’re 5/8 extra hollow, with a rounded point. The edges are so thin that they’re almost ‘singing’ blades, meaning that they let off this high-pitched ‘sching!’ when they’re struck or rubbed on something…like when they’re being used to shave with!

Catching onto this trend, it became the fashion for cutlery firms which manufactured and sold razors, to start selling them in sets. Two- and four-razor sets are relatively common, the idea being that you could chop and change razors as you worked your way through the week, preventing excessive wear or overuse on any one blade. For those who could afford it, however, manufacturers started coming out with the much flashier-looking ‘seven day sets’ – with one razor for each day of the week. By using each razor only once every seven days, the edge of each razor’s blade was preserved and would last a lot longer between sharpenings.

Are such sets common items?

Not really. Most men only ever owned one or two razors, and simply sharpened, stropped and cleaned that one, or those two razors, for the rest of their lives. Seven day sets were often seen as luxury items, usually purchased by wealthy gentlemen who had money to burn, and who had the servants (such as a personal valet) whose job it was to maintain his master’s wardrobe and personal grooming accessories, and whose duties included sharpening and stropping their master’s seven piece razor set at regular intervals to keep the blades clean, smooth and sharp. But since such sets are generally rarer, but also of higher overall quality, they’re also highly collectible, and high-quality antique seven day sets from famous cutlers and retail establishments can fetch several hundred, or even thousands of dollars.

My Seven Day Set

As you may have surmised from what you’ve read so far, I’ve been chasing one of these sets for a long time. The better part of eight years! And after a long and exhausting hunt, I finally have one! The reason it’s taken so long for me to find one should now be pretty self-evident. They’re not exactly common, finding one in good condition can be tricky, and they’re also very, very expensive! But the gods of good fortune smiled on me, and I finally managed to get my hands on one!

The original manufacturer’s guarantee paper that came with the set. It’s 120 years old and still in such fantastic condition! Pretty incredible, huh? I’ve since laminated this slip of paper in a sheet of clear adhesive plastic, to prevent it from being torn and damaged or water-marked. I wanted it to last another 120 years, after all!

The set which I purchased – at a local flea-market – was made in the English city of Sheffield in about 1900. Sheffield, like Solingen in Germany, has had a long and proud history of manufacturing cutlery of all kinds, from scissors to pocketknives, straight razors to silverware. If you’ve purchased a bladed implement of any kind, which has the names of either of these two towns marks on it, then you can be assured that they are blades of quality!

The scales on the razors which make up my set are certainly nothing flashy – plain black celluloid plastic. Although to be honest, if the scales were made of anything else, I doubt I would be able to afford a set of any kind at all! The blades are 5/8, extra-hollow ground, with wafer thin, almost ‘singing-blade’ edges. For those who have never heard of something like this, that means that the blade edges are so thin that they vibrate and flex when the razor’s being used, causing it to emit high-pitched rasping noises. Such blades can be tricky to use just due to how thin and flexible they are, but if you can pull it off, they give the most amazing shaves…

The case itself is made of wood and covered in red Morocco leather on the outside, and soft, purple felt and velvet on the inside, with the maker’s name and model of the razor stamped on the underside of the lid in beautiful gold leaf. Although not easy to read, the spine of each razor-blade is actually marked with a day of the week on it.

The case, closed. Wine red moroccan leather, with gold leaf border around the edge.

Is it a top of the range seven day set? Probably not. Something like this was likely more in the “plain but serviceable” range of merchandise. But regardless of that, it was in great condition when I bought it. It required all the usual things done to it – clean the blades, sharpen the edges, strop the razors, blow out the dust, etc, but the razors and the box that they came in didn’t have any real issues, beyond one or two cosmetic flaws – the result of being, at a pinch, nearly 120 years old!

Along with all that, it even came with a little bonus – the original product warranty slip inside the box!…probably way out of date by now…but it is interesting to read about what constituted a product warranty or guarantee 120 years ago! Fascinating to read. One wonders if such things will happen with old iPhones in 120 years? I doubt it. Most of them barely last 120 days…

Restoring the Set

Honestly, restoring this set was pretty easy. It really didn’t need that much attention. A bit of glue to stop the leather from coming off the wooden case, blowing out the dust and lint, and the usual cleaning, polishing and sharpening and a bit of rust-removal on the blades of the razors was all that was required. I spent ages at the market just looking at the set, weighing it up and scrutinising every part of it in minute detail before I ever decided to buy it, so I was very certain that there wasn’t anything wrong with the set that I wouldn’t be able to sort out myself. Thank goodness I was right!

I want to buy a seven day set! Help me…?

Seven day razor sets are pretty easy to find – just check eBay or any of the major straight razor manufacturers which are still in business – but not so easy to buy. As I explained already, they can be prohibitively expensive…especially if you’re buying one brand-new!

Given that state of affairs, perhaps you decide that buying a secondhand set might be more within your price-range? If so, then there are a few more things that you need to consider.

First, you need to be sure that all the razors actually match. The whole point of a seven day set is that all seven razors are identical! Every razor in the box should look exactly the same (except for the days of the week, should your set have these included).

The beautiful gold leafing on the interior liner reads “The Legion (Reg’d.) Razor”. Tested Finest Grade Steel. Sheffield, England.

Check in particular for things like warped or cracked scales, chipped or cracked blades, excessive rust, blade-wear and water-spots. Antique razors are made of carbon steel, not stainless steel. This means that they can rust very, very easily. Check for “frowning” or “smiling” blades (blades with too much wear in the middle – frowning, or on either end – smiling) – this is a sign that the razor was poorly maintained and sharpened incorrectly.

Light rust can be polished or sanded off with ultrafine sandpaper or steel wool, and a touch of metal polish. Heavy rusting which would impact the structural integrity of the blade should be avoided.

The next thing to do is to check the condition of the box or case. The majority of seven day sets were sold in handsome, wooden cases, some were plain wood, some had glass lids (although this is more of a modern innovation), and some were covered in beautifully decorated Moroccan leather, with gold-leaf edges. Check for any rips, tears or wear in the leather, and any damage to the box. Minor things which can be fixed with glue and a bit of patience shouldn’t put you off. Major damage like faulty hinges, catches, or cracks should be approached with caution. If you have the skills to repair such damage, then go ahead and buy it, however.

Interiors of these boxes are usually lined in silk and velvet, if they’re lined at all (some had simple, plain wooden interiors). Make sure that the linings are undamaged and that seams aren’t split or worn (especially around the hinges). Any gold-leaf decoration should be crisp, whole and legible. In some cases, it can be touched up slightly with a gold-paint pen if you can find one of the right shade, without ruining the overall look of the box.

Of particular importance – make sure that the box’s closure mechanism is sound. You’ll be in for a nasty (and possibly very painful) shock if the box falls open accidentally when you’re carrying it or picking it up, scattering your razors all over the floor – or even worse, all over your feet! Spring-loaded catches should snap shut securely, and clasps should close firmly. A case that’s held shut with a rubber band is a case to beware of.

Fortunately, my razors and the case which they came in were largely free of issues like this, so I was able to buy them and enjoy them without investing much time and effort into their restoration and repair. There really wasn’t much to worry about, and it’s been a lot of fun writing about them, and being able to share them with the world.

 

 

 

Antique Russian Niello Silver Cigarette Case (Moscow, 1873)

 

As my blog hits its 9th anniversary (yeah that’s right, the end of October, 2018, is its NINTH year!), I decided to post about something a little different. And this year, the little different thing is something I picked up at my local market – the first time I visited the market after getting home from a recent overseas holiday.

Finding stuff at flea-markets is very hit-and-miss. Sometimes you can find amazing stuff for great prices…and sometimes all you discover is overpriced junk or cheap trash that really makes you wonder why you bothered to wake up so damn early in the first place!

Anyway, the posting for this anniversary is the beautiful, quirky little silver case or box which I picked up this week just gone. Originally a cigarette case, I decided to repurpose it for holding my peppermints – a function for which it is surprisingly well-suited! So what is this item, and what’s its history?

So, what Is It?

I bought this beautiful silver cigarette or cigarillo case at my local Sunday flea-market. It had no dents, no scratches, marks, scrapes or any other major damage. There was some loss to the decorations applied to the silver surface of the box, but was about it! The catch and spring were good and strong, the hinges were in excellent condition, and the hallmarks were sharp and crisp. A bit of haggling and arm-twisting saw a decent discount, and I became the proud owner of what is now – my second piece of Romanov-era Russian silverware!

Measuring approximately 3.5, maybe 4 inches across, and about 2 inches wide, this cute little Russian cigarette case just jumped out at me because of its distinctive decorations, which I’ll go into more detail later on. The four square little tabs or hooks on the inside of the case (for holding the straps that kept the cigarettes or cigarillos in place when the case was opened) are still there, and replacing the strap should be pretty easy, if anyone ever decides to!

The Hallmarks

As with most antique European silverware, this piece comes with hallmarks. The Russian hallmarking system is very similar to other major European hallmarking systems, so in that respect it’s pretty easy to read. It differs in that they sometimes use the Russian or Cyrillic alphabet, instead of the more conventional Roman alphabet which is common elsewhere, but still – if you know what you’re looking at, the marks are pretty easy to read.

The case came with two sets of hallmarks – one on each half of the case. As with most European hallmarking systems, the Russian layout comes with four hallmarks:

The date-mark, the purity mark, the maker’s mark, and the assay mark.

The date-mark tells you when the piece was assayed.

The purity mark tells you what purity the silver is (how much silver and how much copper is in the alloy).

The maker’s mark tells you who made the piece.

The assay mark tells you where it was assayed, and – almost unique to Russian silver – the name of the assay-master of the office where it was certified.

Part of the hallmarks. The date is ‘1873’, ’84’ is the zolotnik purity standard and the symbol at the end is the assay-mark for Moscow, Russia.

The marks on this case are the two Cyrillic letters which are the maker’s initials. This is followed by the double-mark of assay-master, and date-mark stacked on top of each other. In this case, the assay master is Veniamin Vasilyevich Savinsky, and the date of assay is 1873.

The next mark along is [84], which refers to ’84 Zolotnik’, the Russian system of grading silver-purity. A zolotnik was an old Russian coin. The name was recycled to be used as the name for the silver-grading system in the 1700s (it’s like saying that “$50.00” = 95% silver, and “$40.00” = 80% silver, etc).

In this case, ’84 Zolotnik’ = 87.5% silver purity.

The final mark is the assay-mark for the city of Moscow. Cities with assay-halls existed throughout the Russian empire, including in Kiev in the Ukraine, and of course – St. Petersburg, where the famous House of Faberge, jewelers to the Romanov Court, had their headquarters.

Niello Decoration

When it comes to antique silverware, there are many, many different types of decorating: Repousse, engraving, chasing, cloisonne, enameling…and niello. If you’ve never heard of niello (“n’yellow”), then that’s probably not too surprising, since it’s not really that common these days as a decorative technique.

So what is ‘niello’?

Niello is a fine powder or paste made up of crushed sulphur and silver, with copper or in the past – lead – added to it. Ground into dust, the powder (or sometimes, paste) is applied to engraved decorations on a piece of silverware. The piece of silver, with the niello powder applied to it, is then heated. The powder softens, melts and runs into the grooves of the engraving or any other areas hollowed out by decorating tools. When it cools, the powder hardens and is baked onto the silver underneath. It’s like a crude form of enameling.

After polishing, the applied niello turns a distinctive black or midnight-blue colour. In this way, the decorated piece of silverware takes on a contrasting two-tone dark-light or ‘black-white’ appearance, with the niello’d areas turning black or midnight-blue, and the non-applied areas retaining their silvery sheen.

The underside of the case.

Niello as a decorative technique has been around for centuries. It dates back, with stops and starts, to at least the Ancient Romans and examples of nielloware have been found in various metals (brass, bronze, copper, silver, gold etc) for thousands of years. Famous Roman author, Pliny the Younger, who gained everlasting fame for his eyewitness accounts of the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79AD, left a recipe for creating niello powder, which includes using silver sulphide, copper and crushed silver powder.

Niello reached a peak in the Medieval and Renaissance eras around the 1200s-1500s, lasting into the Early-Modern era of the 1600s up to 1800. A person who was competent in doing niello decorations was called a niellist.

Goldsmiths, silversmiths, engravers and niellists were important figures in the 1400s and 1500s – as workers of fine metal, they had the skills to engrave, carve and shape the pieces of type required to cast the hundreds of little blocks required for the new movable-type printing-press which came on the scene starting in the 1450s.

Russian Nielloware

Niello allowed for creativity in decoration, but it had one major drawback – just like the Ford Model T – it only came in black!…or very very very dark blue…if you angled the piece against the light…just right. Because of this, in most countries, niello started losing out in favour against other decorative techniques such as guilloche, or engine-turning, and enameling. For one thing, enameling could be transparent, and it came in all kinds of colours, patterns and styles.

While most countries in the 1800s started switching over to enamel decoration on silverware – France, Britain and most other European countries in particular, Russia held onto niello and Russian silverware is famous for its considerable use of niello decoration at a time when most silversmiths in other European countries had abandoned it for much more versatile enameling.

Niello was applied to all kinds of things by Russian silversmiths and goldsmiths. Pocketwatches, card-cases, boxes, cigarette cases, spoons, napkin-rings and especially – jewelry.

Closing Thoughts

Admittedly, niello has never REALLY been my thing. I didn’t really buy this piece because it was niello. I bought it more because of the colour, the pattern, the condition, and the fact that the case was made in Imperial Russia! I don’t know a great deal about antique Russian silver, so this is a bit of a learning experience for me. This brings my collection of antique Russian silverware up to the heady number of…

…two!

Two is a collection…right?

My other piece of antique tsarist Russian silver. This beaker was also assayed in Moscow, but back in about 1855.

Either way, I’m glad to have it, and glad to share it, and its history, with the world!

“Tickets, Please!” – A History of Trams, Trolleys and Streetcars.

 

I’m lucky enough to live in a city with one of the largest, and oldest tram networks in the world. For over 130 years, virtually every type of tram or streetcar that has ever been invented has, at one point or another, rattled, rumbled and clattered along the streets of Melbourne, the capital city of the state of Victoria, in Australia.

So, living in such a place as this, it seemed only logical that I should write a posting about the history of trams, or streetcars as they’re known Stateside. I’ll be using both terms interchangeably (along with others) throughout the posting. Anyway, let’s begin…

Horse-Drawn Trams

Apart from horse-drawn taxi-cabs (or ‘hackney-coaches’ as they were sometimes called), the tram or streetcar is the oldest form of urban public transport in the world, and certainly the oldest form of mass transit in the world. But why did they come to be in the first place? Why on earth would you have something that rides on rails? Surely it’s just cheaper to have something that rides along the road-surface instead, just like everything else, right?

Commencing operations in 1807, the Swansea & Mumbles Railway, as it was called, was the first horse-tram line in the entire world.

Well, running wheels on tracks or rails had one big advantage over running wheels over the road – tracks, made of wrought iron or steel, were smooth and flat. This meant that there was less friction. Less friction meant a smoother, easier ride – particularly important, when you consider that early trams were pulled by horses! The bumpy, rough, friction-inducing nightmare of dragging a carriage through the streets was much harder than simply gliding along smooth rails of steel and iron. Making the trams easier to pull meant that the horses which pulled them could go faster, further and more frequently, and could pull heavier loads with more comfort, important if they were going up or down hills all day!

Mule-tram in Houston, Texas, 1870. Even before the end of the century, small, inefficient horse-trams like this were already starting to be seen as old-fashioned.

These first, horse-drawn trams operated as early as the 1800s, but it wasn’t until the 1850s that permanent horse-tram lines and networks started being established in England, Europe, and the United States. Although moderately effective, horse trams came with a variety of issues that made them undesirable.

First, they couldn’t go appreciably faster than a horse and carriage. Secondly, they were limited largely to flat, or gentle sloping areas. Thirdly, horses could be injured on the job. They also required rest, food and water, medical attention and specialist equipment to do their jobs. And horses had to be replaced regularly if they got tired or ill.

While horse-trams could pull heavier loads with greater ease while the trams remained on the tracks, the simple fact was that eventually, there would be a load that would be too heavy for the horse to pull – especially uphill. This was dangerous if the horse suddenly lost its grip and the tram went sliding back down the hill instead of up it! By the 1870s and 1880s, more effective methods of urban mass-transit were being explored that were safer, faster, smoother and cleaner.

Cable-Hauled Streetcars

The next major advancement in tram technology was the development of the cable-hauled streetcar. The system was surprisingly advanced for the day, but also relatively simple to operate, even though it required a fair bit of infrastructure in order for it to work.

Using huge steam-engines, large driving-wheels pulled enormous steel cables through a trench or ‘slot’ between the two guiding-rails along a streetcar’s route. The trams themselves had no motive force. To move, a steel clamp fed down into the slot gripped around the cable as it slid past.

Once firmly clamped onto the cable, the grip allowed the streetcar to be pulled along the tracks at the speed of the cable, which was dictated by the speed of the driving-wheels and pulleys in the powerhouse at the end of the streetcar line. Wheels and pulleys set into the tracks also helped guide the streetcar up and down hills, and around corners.

Experiments in cable-hauled transport date back to the 1820s, but many early attempts failed miserably, and were eventually replaced by steam-powered locomotives. It wasn’t until the early 1870s that the technology was truly viable.

The first really successful cable-streetcar was established in the suitably hilly city of San Francisco, a city where then-conventional horse-trams couldn’t possibly hope to operate. After witnessing a horrible horse-tram accident while living in the city by the bay, it is said that English-born inventor Andrew Hallidie decided to use his expertise in manufacturing ‘wire rope’ (what today we’d call ‘steel cables’) to see whether he could design a really effective, and safer cable-hauled streetcar system.

That system, the first, last, and today, only original cable-streetcar network still functioning in the world in modern times, was opened in San Francisco in 1873. Between 1873 and 1900, several miles of track were laid out across San Francisco.

The city’s neat, grid-layout of streets made the laying of streetcar lines easy and by the turn of the century, it had one of the most extensive cable-streetcar networks in the world. Strategically-placed powerhouses operated the massive wheels required to pull the cables between the tracks and one powerhouse could, if properly sited, power the cables for two or three different lines all at once.

Operating a Cable-Streetcar

Cable-hauled streetcars were the most technologically advanced form of public transport yet devised. The system operated by having a steel cable running through a trench (‘slot’) in the road between the two running tracks of the streetcar line. The cable moved at a constant rate of speed and at a certain tension. The streetcars themselves had no engines or motors. They moved by sliding a clamp (‘the grip’) through the slot in the road. The grip-jaws locked around the cable by mechanical force, and this grip held onto the cable and the car was pulled along the street as the cable moved through the slot.

Cable-streetcars typically had two or three brakes – a standard track-brake (blocks of wood which clamped down on the track to create friction and stop the car) and wheel-brakes, operated by the crew using wheels and cranks.

A cable-streetcar typically had two crew-members: The driver or ‘gripman’, and the conductor.

The gripman operated the heavy grip-levers used to ‘pick up’ (grasp) or ‘throw’ (drop) the cable. As this was done entirely by brute force and mechanical movement, you needed considerable strength to pull the levers back and forth to operate the heavy steel jaws that clamped onto the cable running beneath the car. The gripman also kept his eyes on the road ahead, and above him in the gripman’s dummy-car, was a rope and handle for ringing the main bell at the front of the streetcar to announce stopping, staring, and to clear the road ahead.

Knowing when to ‘throw’ and ‘pick up’ the cable was vital – usually, this was done when the streetcar was entering or exiting the car-barn at the start or end of a shift, or else when it was crossing intersections with tracks from other streetcar lines running perpendicular. If you didn’t drop the cable at the right time, then the grip-jaws would snag against the cable of the streetcar tracks running the other way across the intersection. It was a job that required a fair bit of concentration, and a lot of brute strength!

A cable-hauled streetcar in Melbourne, around 1890. The grip-car at the front is the dummy, the enclosed carriage behind is the trailer. The grip-mechanism is housed between the two benches in the dummy-car and are operated by the gripman (behind the bench, wearing the peaked cap).

While the gripman operated the actual movement and control of the streetcar, his second-in-command, the conductor, did everything else. Conductors were in charge of helping passengers on and off the cable-tram, of issuing tickets and collecting fares, operating the emergency brake (usually located at the back of the tram) in the event of an emergency, and of communicating instructions to the gripman.

To communicate orders to the gripman, the conductor used the smaller communications bell mounted to the underside the dummy-car’s roof. A cable ran around the inside of the streetcar, through guide-rings bolted to the ceiling. Pulling the cord and ringing the bell once, was the signal to stop. Ringing the bell twice was the signal to proceed. Ringing it three or more times was the signal that the streetcar needed to make an emergency stop. This bell was either operated by the conductor, wishing to communicate with the gripman, or by the passengers themselves, wanting to board or alight the streetcar at various stops along the way.

The Spread of the Cable-Hauled Streetcar

Although costly to install, cable-hauled streetcars were popular around the world because of their relative ease of operation, and ability to operate under conditions that older, horse-drawn streetcars could not. They could move faster, smoother, were more controllable, they could climb hills and descend slopes with greater speed and safety, and they did not require the streetcar companies to maintain a whole heap of horses.

Because of all these benefits, cable-hauled streetcar systems spread all over the globe. At one time they could be found in San Francisco (where they originated), but also New York, Melbourne, Chicago, Cincinnati, Denver, Philadelphia, St. Louis, London, Birmingham, Wellington…as you can see, their use was quite extensive!

Extensive, popular, but also, relatively short-lived. Just as cable-hauled trams were becoming the norm (around the turn of the last century), new methods of streetcar propulsion started becoming popular. In Europe, experiments in gasoline-fired trams, steam trams, and electric trams were underway. As early as the 1890s, some cities were already creating (or converting) streetcar-lines that operated on electrical power.

Despite this, cable-hauled streetcars remained in use for a considerable length of time. The expense of changing over to electricity, the high price of early automobiles, warfare, the Great Depression, and other stalling factors kept them going. However, by the early 1900s, most were on the way out, and after the Second World War, only a handful of cities still had them (Melbourne’s cable-tram network was finally shut down in 1940, for example).

Electric Streetcars

By the 1890s, cable-hauled streetcars were already becoming obsolete, being replaced by much faster, smoother-operating electrically powered models. Although they weren’t any quieter than cable-cars, electrically-powered models could do away with things like centrally-positioned cable-slots, guide-wheels, powerhouses and heavy engines to drive the machinery needed to operate a vast cable-hauled streetcar network. Electric trams could have lights, hydraulic brakes and doors, and they didn’t need so much physical strength to operate them.

The oldest electrically-powered tram in Melbourne is the Hawthorn Tramway Trust’s No. 8, from about 1910, shown here in the early 2000s. When not out and about, it resides at the Melbourne Tram Museum in Hawthorn.

With the aid of a trolley-pole (which today has been replaced by the more reliable pantograph), electrical power was delivered from overhead wires to the streetcar. The electrical power operated the little motor and ran through the circuitry inside the body of the streetcar to move it forwards or backwards, and to power the lights. Moving the streetcar was then simply a matter of increasing or decreasing the amount of power sent to the wheels beneath the chassis, which controlled the speed.

Since electrical streetcars did not have to rely on a cable to pull them through the streets, they could be made much larger and could carry far more passengers. Various configurations of electric trams were developed in the late 1800s and early 1900s, to try and fit as many passengers on in as many ways as possible. Open and closed compartments, and seats and doors in different configurations were all trialed and tested to find designs that would work.

The Decline of the Streetcar

Trams or streetcars remained popular in countless dozens of cities all over the world for the better part of fifty or sixty years. From Canada to Britain, America to Europe, China to Australia and New Zealand, all kinds of trams, trolleys and streetcars of all varieties, were being used from the period spanning roughly 1850 – 1960. And then suddenly – most of them just…disappeared! Cities that once boasted extensive networks saw them vanish in the space of a few years, or even months!

Why?

In the postwar “Long Boom” of the 50s and 60s, trams were seen as old-fashioned. They were heavy, loud, they took up road-space, they were rattly and could only travel along fixed routes. They were seen as a relic of the Victorian era, when people didn’t have cars, and therefore needed trams to get around.

But now people had cars! So why on earth would they still need trams? And if they need trams, why not replace them with buses? So much more flexible!

It was thinking like this which caused many cities to rip up the vast majority of, or in some cases, even all, their tram-tracks and replace them with dedicated bus-lanes. Melbourne in Australia, my home town, was one of the very, very few cities which retained its network when all over the world, from Los Angeles to Shanghai, Cincinnati to New York, cities were disposing of the tracks, the sheds, the rolling-stock…everything! In the whole world, Melbourne, Hong Kong, San Francisco, and a handful of other cities, were the only major population-centers to cling onto them. And of all those, only Melbourne really bothered to expand on their networks and keep it going as a viable means of public transport.

Buses Replace Trams

Starting in the 1940s, buses started replacing trams in big cities, and this trend only increased in the 1950s and 60s as more and more cities started removing streetcar lines from their streets. In most developed countries, most people could now afford cars, and the freedom to go where-ever they wanted, because of them. This meant that there was less need for public transport, and therefore a decrease in interest in trams. But replacing them with buses meant that there was only another set of wheels on the road which was loud, heavy, polluting and which couldn’t move any faster than the traffic itself.

On top of that, buses needed to stop regularly for everything else that a car needed to – oil-changes, refueling, replacing tires, fixing punctures, engine-repairs…these all cost money, but it also means that buses didn’t last as long as trams did.

A Streetcar-named Desire!

In the early 21st century, trams, trolleys and streetcars – whatever you wish to call them – have been seeing a huge resurgence in popularity around the world. In cities where such networks already exist, news tracks are being laid. In cities where streetcars didn’t exist, routes are being opened. In cities where streetcars once rolled, old stock is being pulled out of retirement and being put back into service.

Since 2000, at least a dozen cities in the United States have started experimenting with streetcar networks, including Portland in Oregon (which has one of the largest modern streetcar networks in the USA), Cincinnati in Ohio, and London in England.

An original New Orleans vintage streetcar, still in operation today.

Along with Melbourne and Hong Kong, other cities which never shut down their streetcar lines include New Orleans in Louisiana, Toronto in Canada, Vienna in Austria, and San Francisco in California, which still maintains a total of five routes (three cable-routes, and two heritage streetcar routes running vintage streetcars imported from around the world).


One of Melbourne’s vintage, W-class trams, which were popular in the 1920s, 30s, 40s and 50s. When I was a kid, you could still find these vintage relics clattering around town. Today they’re a pretty rare sight, although you can still sometimes find them.

Why Are Streetcars Coming Back?

Honestly? Because they’re cool. And because people are finally realising the error of their ways.

While it’s true that buses are more flexible in the sense that they don’t need rails to move on, buses had a number of disadvantages which meant that they simply could not outperform trams.

Buses were limited in size, they burn fuel and emit fumes, they require regular maintenance and tire-changes and repairs, and they need to deal with all the other issues that public transport has to handle. Trams by comparison could be made very long, with lots of space inside them for passengers. They could last on the road far longer than buses, they didn’t emit fumes, and they use electricity to move around with, which can be produced from clean sources that don’t emit harmful gases.

Just like Melbourne, trams have remained a fixture of public transport in Vienna, Austria, since the 1880s.

Trams don’t have much in the way of maintenance. Apart from regular cleaning and the occasional motor-check, there’s no fuel to replace, and steel wheels and tires last a lot longer than rubber ones, and by their nature, tram-routes are typically limited to wider streets and boulevards, meaning that they’re less likely to delay traffic, even if they do break down. On top of that, tram or streetcar networks give a city in the 21st century – just as they did in the 19th century – a look of progress and modernity.

It’s for all these reasons and more, that trams are making a comeback. While some cities struggle with the idea of miniature train-lines running through their streets, the number of large cities around the world which are successfully embracing, and even expanding on their tram-networks are proof that over 100 years ago, our Victorian ancestors knew what they were on about!

Cowboys and Indians: The Truth about the Wild West

 

Cowboys, Indians, cattle-rustlin’, shootouts, sheriff’s posses, drinking, whoring and gambling! These are the sorts of things we think about when we imagine a time, and a place in American history known as the ‘Wild West’, also known as the ‘Old West’. But what was the Wild West? Where was it? How long did it last for? How wild did it really get? In this posting, we’re going to find out!

Before the ‘Wild West’

America in the first half of the 1800s was largely confined to the East Coast, bordering the Atlantic Ocean. From Florida in the south to northern states like New York, Rhode Island and Massachusetts, America was largely confined to the original “13 Colonies” that had been established by the British in the 1600s and 1700s. But with the end of the American Revolutionary War in the 1780s, America struck out to determine its own destiny. And part of that destiny was exploring the lands that existed beyond what was then called the “Proclamation Line” – an invisible barrier or border set up by the British to try and protect the land-rights of Native Americans back in colonial days.

The fastest way to explore this land without getting shot at was first – to buy it! This was achieved in the famous 1804 Louisiana Purchase, where France sold off its share of the North American continent (‘Louisiana’, named after King Louis) to the American republic, presided over by Thomas Jefferson at the time. From the western borders of the Louisiana Purchase, to the eastern limit of the original 13 Colonies, America had doubled in size! Explorers, hunters, trappers, cartographers and settlers seeking adventure and riches set out across this new land to find out what it contained.

The first government-sponsored expedition into this new land was the famous Lewis & Clark Expedition of 1804-1806 where Thomas Jefferson charged these two explorers with  going west, both to map the area, find out what it contained, and also see if they could chart out a reliable route from the lands west of the Mississippi River, to the Pacific Coast of the continent. Jefferson also wanted these two explorers to get there first to stop foreign powers in the area (Britain and Spain, mostly) from trying to sneak in on their new turf!

It was with land-purchases and expeditions like these that America started gradually expanding westwards. By the 1830s and 40s, conflict with Mexico increased the United States’ grasp on the continent even further. The belief in “manifest destiny” was their justification to keep on going. This was the belief that their destiny was ‘manifest’ – or pre-determined and obvious, and that they should keep expanding if the means to do so were presented.

By the 1840s and 50s, America had established settlements on the West Coast, or else had taken over old Spanish and Mexican settlements. Cities like Sacramento, Los Angeles and San Francisco were established or expanded on during this period.

The California Gold-Rush

Oh my darlin’,
Oh my darlin’,
Oh my darlin’,
Clementine,

Met a miner,
49’er,
Excavatin’…
For a mine…

Yep. When gold was discovered in California, the Great California Gold Rush was on! Ships lay idle in San Francisco Bay, and thousands of sailors, immigrants and locals fled to inland to the cry that “there’s gold in them there hills!”.

The earliest miners were popularly nicknamed ’49ers’ or ‘forty-niners’, named after the year that they arrived – 1849. And from then on, people came. Shiploads of people from all over the world rushed to California. And those who didn’t come by ship came by long, torturous wagon-trains that were pulled across the midwest and through the mountains by oxen on the so-called ‘prairie schooners’, better known as the covered wagon.

As gold was discovered and cities like Sacremento and San Francisco started to grow, people seeking opportunities surged westwards.

Or rather…they walked westwards.

See the problem was that getting from the Eastern states to the Western states was extremely difficult. Every single yard had to be trekked on foot or by using a wagon train. It could take weeks and months to get there, and walking all the time. If you didn’t want to walk, then you could take a ship!…which meant a voyage all the way down to the bottom of South America, and all the way up the West Coast! The problem with this was that you had to go past Cape Horn, the most dangerous stretch of ocean in the world! There was a very good chance that you’d never be seen again!

Um…nice knowing you…!

The Transcontinental Railroad

To make traversing the bigger, better USA a much safer and faster prospect, Abraham Lincoln authorised the construction of the Transcontinental Railroad in the 1860s. Thousands of miles of track were laid by hand through the Midwest. Tunnels were blasted out of mountainsides using nothing but gunpowder, and thousands of trees were used in constructing dozens of bridges and viaducts to get the trains through. To pay for the gigantic cost of the railroad, the government came up with the brilliant idea of selling off land that spread out from either side of the track. That way, farmers, ranchers and settlers could buy the land from the government, and the money raised would be used to pay for the railroad.

When the two halves of the Transcontinental Railroad were joined at Promontory Point, Utah, a single word was transmitted down the telegraph line in Morse Code: “DONE”, signalling the official completion of the line. It was the first live telecommunications news broadcast in the world.

With a reliable and fast mode of transport now in place, the Transcontinental Railroad allowed for the creation of towns dotted throughout the American west. With easy transport and convenient telegraph lines, anywhere that was worth settling (usually because of easy access to water, and some sort of raw resource worth making money from, like silver, gold or some other metal or mineral), was settled. Farmers and ranchers set themselves up in business, miners and prospectors got to work, and everything else that came to characterise the typical Wild West town went along with it!

The Birth of the Wild West

The period known as the ‘Wild West’ lasted from roughly the end of the Civil War in 1865, until the early 20th century, up to about the time of the First World War, in 1914. During this approximately fifty-year period, a whole mythology of the West was formed. How did it come to be? What was it? And how much of it was true?

The ‘Wild West’ was defined as the area of the United States stretching from the Pacific coast through the Midwest, up to the Mississippi river. This vast expanse of land, encompassing states such as California, Nevada, Texas, Arizona, Utah, Colorado, Kansas, Nebraska, and so on. These states were sparsely populated and far from any major centers of civilisation, such as the great coastal cities of San Francisco, Boston, and New York.

These states (or territories, as most of them were back then) which made up the ‘Wild West’ were newly opened to settlement due to land grants, the railroads and the discovery of gold, silver and other minerals buried in the mountains and rivers that flowed through these territories, but had little in the way of infrastructure or reliable communications networks and what few hubs of civilisation there were, were generally few and far between.

Such settlements and towns as existed in the Wild West were often thrown up very quickly. Many started out as tent-cities. Eventually, these were replaced by cheap, easily-erected buildings, many of them sold as prefabricated, flat-pack kits! It was easy to order an entire…cottage, general store, tavern, sheriff’s office, barbershop, or even your very own flat-pack whorehouse, from a company ‘back East’! Companies manufactured these buildings and advertised them for sale in catalogs and magazines specifically aimed at people who were heading ‘out West’ to seek their fortunes in some gold-rush boom-town or one-horse cow-town stuck in the boondocks.

To make the transition from bustling Eastern metropolis to dusty western plains easier and safer, such prefabricated buildings were created. The entire structure of the building was simply packed up in crates, loaded on a train and driven out to where-ever your town happened to be. With the help of a few friendly locals, the town’s latest watering-hole, hotel, assay-office, general store or draper’s shop could be thrown up in a matter of days. Everything you needed came with the package – doors, windows, roofing…all you did was slot it together – IKEA for buildings!

Why did the Wild West Exist?

The Wild West sprang into existence for a number of reasons. Chief among these were unemployment, mining, ranching and farming, and industry.

At the end of the Civil War, there were loads of soldiers from both the Union and the Confederacy that were looking for jobs. When jobs couldn’t be found, they had to turn their sights to something else. Many became workers and labourers building the Transcontinental Railroad, and other networks that snaked their ways across the West. They laid the groundwork for what was to come. Other men gained employment setting up telegraph stations, sinking poles into the ground alongside railroad tracks, and stringing electric telegraph wires to link towns and cities.

Towns were established where-ever it was deemed profitable to do so. Many Old West towns were mining boom-towns, digging out gold, tin, copper, silver and other raw resources. Others made money from lumber, cattle-rearing, or else grew out of way-stations and outposts set up to give aid to hunters, trappers and cowboys who handled cattle, beavers, oxen and other game and stock-animals that could be herded or hunted out west.

Apart from cattle and herding, a lot of wild west towns were established because of mining. Gold and silver mines sunk or dug into the hills and mountains of the Wild West brought in thousands of people who had probably never mined in their lives, but who were willing to risk death and destruction to have a chance at striking it rich. General stores, hotels, drapers, ironmongers, blacksmiths, farriers and moonshiners all set themselves up to do business with these miners, and turn a tidy profit while they were at it.

Getting to the ‘Wild West’

For many people, just the whole act of ‘going west’ was an adventure in and of itself. To say it was challenging was an understatement. Before the 1860s, it required a covered wagon-train, months of supplies, water, everything that you might possibly need, a team of oxen to drive the wagons, and a competent guide. There was a very good chance that you would never make it to Nevada, California, New Mexico, or Arizona – deaths from dehydration, disease, food-poisoning, and Indian attacks were common and trails through the West created by pioneers which went before you were often lined with crosses marking the graves of fallen explorers and hopefuls.

The covered wagon or “Prairie Schooner’, a common sight on the roads westwards, until the Transcontinental Railroad took over in the 1860s and 70s.

The establishment of the Transcontinental Railroad by the start of the 1870s made travel west much easier. What once took months to traverse by covered wagon could now be done in a matter of a few days by faster, more reliable steam-trains – although that said, early railroads were notoriously dangerous. Derailments, boiler-explosions and head-on collisions with other engines were common. But assuming that you made it safely to the Wild West, what could you expect?

The classic wild west train of the 1860s and 70s. Early steam-trains were what the ‘old-timers’ liked to call ‘wood-burners’ – they burned wood in their fireboxes, not coal. The conical smokestack on top of the boiler was deliberately flared out as a spark-arrestor, to stop errant smouldering cinders from flying out the top and setting the grasslands on fire as the train moved along at high speed.

Typical Wild West towns were wild and rowdy places. Drinking, gambling, whoring and fighting were common occurrences. For the newly-arrived traveler, there were hotels or inns where you could stay, possibly a bank where you could deposit your gold or money, and if you were a miner or prospector, an assay-office where you could get any pay-dirt from your claim, processed and examined (‘assayed’).

The more ‘up-market’ Western towns had the latest technologies – their own railroad stations, water-pumps (usually windmill-driven screw-pumps that siphoned up groundwater), and maybe even one or two telegraph offices, usually near the town center, or the main railroad station.

Streets in Wild West towns were rarely, if ever paved – those covered wooden pavements and walkways weren’t just there to look good – they were to stop you from getting your boots or shoes slopped up with mud when it started to rain!

Regardless of size, every western town had the staples – a tavern or bar, an inn or hotel, a whorehouse, and a sheriff’s office. But were Wild West towns really as wild as we imagine?

Law and Order in the Wild West

The popular image of the Wild West is that it was a place where anything and everything goes. Do whatever, eat whatever, drink whatever, shoot whatever! And to hell with the consequences! I mean, that’s why it’s called the ‘Wild West’ to begin with, right?

Um…not so fast.

Don’t forget that a lot of Wild West towns sprung up because of the rich resources nearby. Cattle-ranching, farming and mining. No wild west town was going to last very long if they didn’t have at least some law and order to protect these vital industries which kept the towns viable and alive. If people expected labourers, farmers, miners and prospectors to make their home in their new fledgling community, then it had to be safe!

To protect the citizenry and the merchandise, materials or wealth that they brought to the town (or created while they were there), almost every western town of note had a sheriff, and if he was lucky, a few deputies (and if he was unlucky, then he’d have to raise a posse to do things for him). Either way, it was his job to enforce the laws, and one of the first laws on his list was one which might surprise you – gun-control!

Firearms in the Old West

When you think of the Wild West, you automatically think of guns! Revolvers like the Colt Single-Action Army, the Winchester lever-action repeating rifle, and the break-open dual-barreled coaching-guns, are the weapons which typically come to mind. By the 1860s and 70s, advances in firearms technology had done away with old muzzle-loading muskets and blunderbusses, to be replaced by sleek, smooth-actioned, fast-firing, fast-loading cartridge firearms which could be shot off and reloaded in a matter of a couple of minutes.

The Winchester Lever-action Rifle, various permutations of which, were popular in the Wild West from the 1860s up to the early 1900s. Pulling the lever discharged the spent shell and reloaded a fresh round from the tube-magazine underneath the barrel.

That said, the reality of firearms and the wild west isn’t nearly as rambunctious as you might imagine.

While the popular depiction of the West was that everybody in town was packin’ heat, with cowboys wavin’ six-shooters around and damsels hiding derringers up their garters, the truth is that in many Wild West towns – carrying firearms – or indeed, any kind of weapon at all – even a large knife – was actually illegal! The notion that there were crazy shootouts and gunfights every other day of the week, and that bodies stacked up faster than freshly-split firewood, simply isn’t true. In fact, the murder-rate in most Wild West towns would be disappointingly low for anybody looking to recreate a bloodthirsty Wild West boom-town.

Talking about revolvers – here’s a little trivia question for you: 

In the Wild West, revolvers were popularly called ‘six-shooters’, because almost every revolver was capable of holding six rounds. But how many rounds did the average gunslinger actually load into his revolver? Find out at the end of the article…

The Colt Single-Action Army Revolver, popularly known as the ‘Peacemaker’, was one of the most common firearms found in the Old West. Firing large-calibre 44 and 45-cal. rounds, the gun was introduced in 1873…and has been in near-constant manufacture ever since!

So how tight was gun-control in the old west? Well, let’s take one of the most famous wild west towns as an example – Tombstone, Arizona. In 1881, Tombstone passed a law that stated in no uncertain terms, the following conditions regarding local gun-ownership:

Section 1. It is hereby declared unlawful to carry in the hand or upon the person or otherwise any deadly weapon within the limits of said city of Tombstone, without first obtaining a permit in writing.
Section 2: This prohibition does not extend to persons immediately leaving or entering the city, who, with good faith, and within reasonable time are proceeding to deposit, or take from the place of deposit such deadly weapon.
Section 3: All fire-arms of every description, and bowie knives and dirks, are included within the prohibition of this ordinance.

So if you were planning on strutting around town, pearl-grips flashing in the sun, you’d have to do some pretty fast talking to get yourself out of a very sticky situation if someone called up the sheriff on you!

Another trope of the Wild West was that death – or more specifically – death from gunfire – was a common occurrence back then. Sorry to say it, but it’s not actually true. Remember all those gun-laws I mentioned? They weren’t limited to just Tombstone – many famous Wild West towns had them, including Deadwood, That’s not to say that people didn’t die out West, but that it was rarely due to instances of unbridled showdowns with guns-a-blazin’! Deaths from gunfire in Wild West towns were surprisingly few, given how common they are in films! To take the example of Tombstone, again, during the Wild West period from the 1850s up to the 1910s or 20s, the kill-count never went above five dead bodies a year!

Tombstone was not an anomaly, either. Similar laws also existed in Dodge City, and in Wichita, Kansas. In fact, carrying an illegal or unregistered firearm in the Old West was one of the fastest ways to get you arrested, and town sheriffs enforced this law rigidly.

This…never happened.

Because of this, you might be thinking about another cliche of the Wild West: the classic wild west duel! You know – two men standing in the middle of Main Street, facing each other…whoever fires first and hits the target is the winner! Right?

Nope.

Historical evidence shows that the ‘classic’ wild west duel never happened. For one, in many towns it would’ve been illegal anyway, because, as I said, firearms were not allowed to be carried around. secondly, if you did sneak a gun into town without the proper permits, then chances were, people were going to raise a hell of a stink about it! In fact, it was due to the violation of the above 1881 gun-control law, that Tombstone, Arizona, saw what was possibly the first, last, only, and most famous gunfighter duel in Wild West history! You might possibly have heard of it – The Gunfight at the O.K. Corral.

The Gunfight at the O.K. Corral

A corral, for those who’ve never heard of the term, is a yard or fenced in open space, typically used for housing cattle or horses. The Old Kindersley Corral (the actual name of the ‘O.K. Corral’ of legend) in Tombstone, was the location, in October of 1881, of the most famous western shootout in history!

Right?

Sorry…wrong again.

The gunfight certainly did happen, and it did take place in Tombstone…but that’s as far as truth will take us. In real life, the gunfight took place outside a photography studio…six doors down the street from the actual corral! It took place between four lawmen and five outlaws, three of whom were killed in the duel.

On one side was Doc Holliday, and the famous Earp Brothers – Sheriff, Wyatt Earp, and his two brothers Virgil and Morgan Earp, who had come along to back him up in his defence of law and order.

On the other side were Thomas and Frank McLaury, Bill and Ike Clanton, and Billy Claiborne.

In essence, the Clanton-McLaury gang were up to no good. The Earp Brothers and their associates had tried over and over again to shut them down. Both Virgil and Wyatt had some experience, either as soldiers or lawmen, and represented law-enforcement in Tombstone for as much as it was possible for them to do so.

Fed up with the Clantons and McLaurys flagrant disobedience of the law, the Earps, along with Holliday, decided that enough was enough and went to shut them down. They decided to take advantage of the newly-introduced gun-control laws that had been enacted just a few months earlier in the year – open-carry of unlicensed firearms was an arrestable offence in Tombstone, and the Earps were ready to take them in. Unfortunately, the cowboys were never going to go quietly. In the space of just thirty seconds, dozens of shots were fired, including two massive shotgun-blasts at point-blank range.

Both McLaury brothers, and Billy Clanton (aged just 19) were shot dead. Ike Clanton (unarmed at the time) fled the scene, and later tried to get the sheriff’s posse arrested on the charge of murder. The local Justice of the Peace ruled that the Earp Brothers and Doc Holliday were only enforcing town laws, and cleared them of any wrongdoing.

Bank-Robberies in the Wild West

One of the reasons why the Wild West existed in the first place was because of gold and silver. Miners dug the gold and silver out of the ground in ore. The ore was assayed (tested), then crushed and refined, melted down and cast into either ingots (bars) or coins. This could either be kept as cash, exchanged for banknotes, or simply stored in a bank, or sent ‘back East’. But if you kept your gold or cash in town, then you would’ve kept it at the local bank. And that bank was being robbed every other week, right?

Um. No.

Believe it or not, but bank robberies were surprisingly rare in the Old West. Partially this was because of the aforementioned gun-laws, and also because banks and other similar institutions were well-guarded in those days. OK, fair point. But what about when the gold bullion or the dust or coins were being transported? What about train-robberies, didn’t they happen?

Robbers attacking shipments on the move certainly did happen, and they were a recognised risk. To deal with it, companies contracted to store and ship gold and other valuables took measures against them. One example is the Wells-Fargo Company. Recognised throughout the west thanks to its green postboxes, Wells-Fargo was a delivery company, shipping and transporting everything from Aunt Susie’s letter about her new cat, to the glittering results from Mr Donnovan’s latest claim! Because Wells-Fargo’s stagecoaches carried such valuables, they were a prize target for robbers and holdup-men. But holding up a stagecoach was no walk in the park.

A Wells Fargo stagecoach. The coach-guard with his double-barreled shotgun sat up the front (on the right) in the driver’s box, next to the coachman, giving ride to the term ‘riding shotgun’.

To protect their stagecoaches, their cargoes, and the passengers riding inside them, Wells-Fargo employed coach-guards – heavily-armed men who rode along the outside of the coach in order to keep the driver and passengers safe. Usually there was anywhere from one to three guards. Regardless of the number of them, one guard always sat up front, next to the driver. Across his lap would be a double-barreled shotgun, which he would happily deploy to deal with any would-be outlaws.

A break-open, double-barreled sawn-off shotgun, popularly called a ‘coach-gun’ for use on stagecoaches. The shorter barrel length made the gun easier to move around in a tight situation and lighter, although the lack of weight in the barrel meant that the recoil would be more powerful. While it only fired two shots at a time, the coach-gun’s widespread buckshot ammunition was unlikely to miss its target – useful when you’re on a rocking stagecoach going at speed.

Ever wondered why riding in the front seat next to the driver is called “riding shotgun”? This is where it comes from – the double-barreled shotguns carried by coach-guards in the Wild West!

Train Robberies in the Wild West!

OK, so we’ve looked at bank-robberies, but what about train-robberies? How common were they? Like bank-robberies, they did happen, but also like bank-robberies, not as frequently as you might think. Among the great train-robbers were Jesse James and his cohorts, and another famous Western outlaw – Butch Cassidy!

Trains made enticing targets for robbery because they were the fastest way to transport valuable goods. Trains were often loaded with gold, silver, coinage, banknotes, payroll-safes, and wealthy passengers. Although they were the fastest vehicles in the world at the time, they still did not go THAT fast – until the early 20th century, it was rare for a steam train to clock up over about 60 miles an hour.

That said, the typical Hollywood method of sticking up a train, by riding alongside it on horseback and jumping onto it, almost never happened. It was far easier to just get on the train at the station, and then hijack the damn thing once it was out of sight of civilisation, or else to quite literally hold up the train by creating some sort of roadblock across the tracks, forcing it to stop, or risk derailment.

To combat the risks of being robbed, train-staff often carried their own protection. Conductors and train-guards who rode along with trains carrying valuable cargo often packed some sort of firearm, either a shotgun or revolver, to discharge against would-be attackers. In one instance, a conductor and a guard even managed to call for help! Hopping out the back of their train, the two men used the latest technology to summon the police – an Ericsson field telephone!

The telephone came complete with long poles and cables. All you did was connect the cables to the poles. Then you hoisted them up into the air and hooked them onto the nearest telegraph line (which was usually alongside the railroad line). Then it was just a matter of cranking up the phone and putting a call through! Using this method, the conductor was able to contact the nearest sheriff’s office and have the train-robbers apprehended!

Cowboys and the Old West

Ah, the cowboy! Rough, tough and tumble. An iconic of hot-blooded All-American sex-appeal! Yeah?

Eh…maybe. Depends on what your sexual preferences are!

The truth is that most cowboys in the Old West, or at least a good proportion of them, were not the well-muscled, good-looking young hunks that you find plastered on the bedroom walls of teenage girls or frustrated housewives – in reality, a lot of cowboys weren’t even white!

See, being a cowboy was a hard, dirty, dangerous job with low pay. Herding hundreds or thousands of cattle long distances was a thankless, thirsty and exhausting job, and because of this, it was one that typically went to people who probably had no other choice but to drive cattle – typically Mexican immigrants, free blacks, or freed or former slaves. By some estimates, up to 25% of cowboys in the Wild West were black. Sure, white cowboys did exist, but they weren’t the only ones that you could find. On top of that, gay cowboys were far more common than you might think!

That’s right, you heard me. Gay cowboys.

Historical records show that homosexuality was pretty common ‘out on the range’. Cut off from civilisation…especially female civilisation…for weeks and months at a time, many cowboys tended to get a bit bored, and before long, even other guys started lookin’ pretty good.

But what about the attitudes to homosexuality back in the 1800s, surely that put a stop to this stuff, right?

Well…not as fast as you might think, if at all! Given that the job was so hard already (no pun intended, I swear to God!), ranchers and farmers were desperate to find good, solid men to drive their cattle long distances. The work was so demanding and difficult that they weren’t about to turn away someone just because he was more interested in what hung below than what rested on top – good help was just so hard to find that ranchers just couldn’t be so picky. And at any rate, sexual preferences, or even sexual encounters, only ever happened way out in the middle of nowhere in the middle of the night. Given that – who was ever going to know? After all, knowing how, when and why to keep stuff under your hat was an important skill to learn in those days, if you expected to live a long life.

Speaking of hats – most cowboys did not wear the classic broad-brimmed Stetson center-pinch cowboy hat, either! Oh no. Although it might look very impressive and produce an alluring silhouette, the truth is that most cowboys actually wore the much more common standard, black bowler hat.

The bowler hat was extremely common in the second half of the 1800s and was worn by everybody from street-toughs to Wall Street bankers, shopkeepers and cowboys….especially cowboys!

Why? Well, one reason why the bowler hat was so popular was because its hard felt, dome-top design meant that it was pretty decent when it came to protecting the wearer from being whacked on the head. Unlike other hats such as top-hats, or the stereotypical cowboy hat, the bowler had to be rigid in order to maintain its characteristic curved shape. Because of this, it quickly became popular as a sort of ‘everyday hard-hat’, a useful feature when being thrown from your horse at full gallop was a real possibility!

Outlaws and Robbers!

The word ‘outlaw’ comes from England, and was originally an English translation of the original Latin phrase from the Middle Ages, which was “Caput Lupinum“.

‘Caput Lupinum’ translates literally as ‘wolf’s head’. Wolves, a menace in medieval England, were notorious for killing sheep and other farm-animals back in the day. Since England’s economy rode on the sheep’s back, anybody who could kill a feral wolf would not face any penalties (as opposed to say, killing deer or sheep or cattle unlawfully).

This same concept was applied to wanted criminals. Criminals who had evaded justice could be very hard to capture in the days before CCTV, squad-cars and two-ray radio. To capture these nefarious criminals, the easiest thing to do was to declare them ‘outlaws’. This meant that the wanted person was now ‘outside the law’.

This meant that they no longer had an obligation to follow the law. It also meant that the law had no obligation to protect them! Anyone who came across an outlaw could – perfectly legally – kill him, using whatever means necessary – and – just like killing a wolf – would face no punishment. Without regular police-forces to maintain order, it was up to ordinary people to observe the ‘Hue and Cry’ and maintain their own order.

Along with the outlaw was his counterpart – the sheriff! The word ‘sheriff’ is a corruption of the original words ‘Shire Reeve’ – an elected official whose job it was to maintain law and order on a lord or baron’s lands and keep the peace. The ‘shire’ was the area of land which the ‘reeve’ oversaw. Eventually, the two words melded into one – Sheriff.

Wild West Outlaws

The Wild West is famous for its outlaws. Jesse James and his gang, John Wesley Hardin, Butch Cassidy, and Billy the Kid were all real people, and they all committed real crimes and real murders! But not everything about these larger-than-life characters is what they seem. Much of what they did, or didn’t do, has been shrouded in tall tales, half-truths and retellings that stretch back over a hundred years. Billy the Kid’s first name wasn’t even Billy! He got the name ‘Billy the Kid’ from the name William H. Bonney…which wasn’t even his real name…in fact, it was Henry McCarty.

Although Billy the Kid was often portrayed as a dangerous and reckless outlaw who killed nearly two dozen people, the truth is that by the time he was shot and killed…at the age of just 21…he’d only murdered four men. And if you believe the stories, he probably shot them with his revolver, which he held in his left hand! Well…that’s not true, either!

The belief that Billy the Kid was lefthanded came from this:

Henry McCarty, AKA Billy the Kid.

Taken in 1880, the year before he died, this is the only confirmed photograph of Billy the Kid known to exist. It’s an old tintype snapshot. In the photograph, he’s carrying two weapons – a revolver on his left hip, and a Winchester lever-action rifle in his right hand. Since the revolver was on the left side of his body, it was always assumed that Billy the Kid was lefthanded. Right?

Wrong.

The photograph is a tintype. This primitive method of photography, while effective, was deceiving. A tintype camera does not produce an exact copy of what it sees – it produces a mirror image of what it sees. That means that any photograph produced from a tintype camera has been flipped the other way around. The error was only discovered when historians examined the weapons in the photograph. The distinctive outline of the Winchester rifle made researchers realise that they’d made a vital error!

See…the Winchester has a tube-magazine underneath the barrel. To load this magazine, you feed rifle-cartridges into the gun from the breech through a spring-loaded hatch above the trigger, known as a loading-gate. If you look at the photograph of the Winchester rifle further up the page, you’ll notice that the gate is (and always has been) on the RIGHT side of the gun.

But in the photograph above of Billy the Kid…the gate is on the LEFT side of the gun – which is an impossibility because Winchester never made guns like that. When the error was finally realised and the photograph was flipped around, it was revealed that Billy the Kid was actually righthanded and that his revolver was actually on his right hip, and the rifle was on his left!

These are just a few examples of how even the outlaws of the Wild West were mythologised, and made out to be bigger, badder and meaner than they really were.

The End of the Wild West

From the early and mid 1800s, the Wild West grew and expanded. It reached its peak in the 1870s, 80s and 90s, up to the turn of the 20th century. As modern technology entered the towns, and the industries that once gave wild west towns their livelihoods, such as mining and cattle-herding, started to die away, the Wild West was consigned to history. Even as early as the turn of the century, it was becoming mythologised as a time gone by, with larger-than-life characters like Buffalo Bill Cody putting on his ‘Wild West Shows’ and touring the world with his famous act. By the end of the First World War, the Wild West had already become the stuff of myths and legends. Those who had lived their lives in the Old West moved on with their new lives. Some of them, like lawman Pat Garret, who killed Billy the Kid, wrote down their memoirs and life-stories in the 1920s and 30s. These twilight reminiscences are what give us the truth, and some of the myths, of what the Wild West was really like.

Finding out More?

If you want to know more, I can strongly recommend the documentary series “Wild West Tech”, if you can find it. Entertaining and educational all in one!

— — — —

So, did you figure out how many rounds were loaded into a revolver?

The answer is FIVE.

Although revolvers could hold six rounds, most cowboys and outlaws who carried revolvers usually only loaded five rounds into their guns (especially if they were older-style cap-and-ball blackpowder revolvers). The reason for this practice was so that the firing pin at the end of the cocking hammer always rested on an empty chamber.

When you were bouncing around in the saddle of your horse, there was a very big risk that the jolting and vibrations could cause the gun to go off accidentally! To ensure that you didn’t shoot yourself…or your horse…due to a sudden jerk that set the firing mechanism off…one chamber was always left empty, as a safeguard against accidents.